Posts Tagged ‘winter expedition’

30th anniversary of the first – ever summit of Mt Everest in the Winter season.

Thursday, February 18th, 2010

Yesterday (February 17, 1980) was the 30th anniversary of the first-ever summit of Mount Everest in the Winter season.

Two Polish mountaineers, Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy, reached the top of the world’s highest peak in 1980, going down in history as the first people to get there in winter.

Mt Everest 1980 first winter ascent -K Wielicki and L Cichy
Over the last 30 years, seven people have so far completed the challenge in winter time, however, in Summer, the journey is easier, so 3,500 have managed to summit Everest.

The 20-strong group which initially set off for the mountain was whittled down to two – the final leg of the journey upwards took seven hours, said Leszek Cichy to Polish Radio.
There isn’t much snow in the Himalayas in winter, as it is blown off by heavy wind. Mount Everest is fortified against mountaineers with large slabs of ice, strong winds and frost. The temperatures in tents at night dropped to minus 40˚C.

“We were high up on the ridge, the nearest people were several hours walking distance away from us. The only thing that allows us to keep in touch was radio. The wind was strong. And, as we were descending, dusk set in and snow from western face blew in the air. And we found ourselves on the border between what is real and unreal, on the border between shadow and the sun, night and day, and also, in a way, between life and death,” Cichy said, referring to the last stages of the ascent.

Mt Everest 1980 first winter ascent -Uczestnicy wyprawy w bazie (fot. Bogdan Jankowski) Mt Everest 1980 first winter ascent – team.

Leszek Cichy presents note which in 1979 Ray Genet left on top of Mount Everest

* Source : – http://himalman.wordpress.com/

* Related Links :

- Polish Himalayas – The Ice Warriors. /Version english and polish/

- Krzysztof Wielicki the famous Polish climber./ Version polish and english /

- Leszek Cichy the famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 1

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 2

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 3

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 4

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

  • Share/Bookmark

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version english and polish/.

Wednesday, November 18th, 2009

Posted by himalman

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 (8611m) led by Krzysztof Wielicki, Poland’s most accomplished Himalayan climber and conqueror of 14 “eight-thousanders”.The expedition has broken the altitude record that man has ever achieved in winter on K2 (Chogori)During the expedition as a base camp tent was used Marabut’s tent – K2

K2 is considered the ultimate climb. It is located in Karakoram, on the border of China and Pakistan near the Silk Route. The history of its exploration is long and dramatic. Until today only almost 200 people reached the summit, but none of them in wintertime. Poles achieved much in the struggle with this mountain during summer. Our climbers led or marked out four routes there. The first Pole, and at the same time the first woman to climb the K2 summit was Wanda Rutkiewicz.

K2 will be climbed from the northern side. The current leader of the expedition Krzysztof Wielicki successfully ascented the mountain in the summer of 1996.

Only 8 out of 14 highest peaks over 8000m were climbed in the winter. Poles were the first to climb them all and are still continuing the idea of the Polish Program of Winter Exploration of the Himalayas and Karakoram. Himalaism still remains a high-class sports challenge.

The current expedition is a tribute to Andrzej Zawada, a creator of the idea of climbing the highest mountains in the winter.

The leader of the expedition Krzysztof Wielicki is the fifth person to climb all 14 highest mountains in the world. Three of them (including Mount Everest) he climbed first, alone and taking new routes and in the winter.

K2, otherwise known as Chogori, is the world’s second highest peak after Mount Everest, extending to a height of 8611 m above sea level. It is located in the Baltoro Mustagh Range situated within the Karakoram Region that lies along the border between China and India. K2 is perceived as the world’s most difficult mountain to climb.

The vast Baltoro Glacier slowly flows down its slopes. An Italian team was the first to ascend to the peak of K2, doing so on July 31, 1954. Since then, no more than 200 climbers have reached the acme. One out of every seven of them have perished on the mountain’s slopes.

The first woman to stand atop K2 was Wanda Rutkiewicz. No one has yet succeeded in scaling the peak in winter. Extreme weather conditions reign in the region around K2. In winter the temperature descends to negative 45 degrees Celsius, while wind speeds reach as much as 200 kilometers per hour.

The last attempt at conquering the peak in winter, undertaken by a team lead by Krzysztof Wielicki, also ended in failure. The expedition began on December 16, 2002 and ended on February 28, 2003. Immediately after his return to Poland on March 18, 2003, Krzysztof Wielicki stated, “The mission of ascending the peak has not ended, but rather been suspended. I will not give any dates, but I assure you that I will return to K2. One does not combat a mountain, one struggles against adversities. These adversities include snow, hurricane winds, and exhaustion.”The Polish expedition arrived at an altitude of 7700 meters before suspending the ascent.

more : Netia K2 Polska Wyprwa Zimowa

(more…)

  • Share/Bookmark

Polish Himalayas – The Ice Warriors. /Version english and polish/

Wednesday, October 14th, 2009

Posted by himalman

Poles in the Himalayas in Winter.

The 17th of January 1980 was one of those days in the history of the world when humankind  managed to break another barrier, to push back the boundaries of the impossible yet again – using skill, intelligence and determination. Throughout the centuries there have been many such days for science, art, sport or the exploration of the globe. On the 17th of January two Poles, Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki, joined the exclusive club of the discoverers of the undiscovered, the explorers of the unexplored, the conquerors of the unconquered. They became the first people in the world to stand on the summit of an eight-thousander in winter – and it was the highest of them all, Mount Everest.Polish Himalayas – The Ice Warriors

In the years that followed Polish expeditions went into the Himalayas one after another, sometimes they were successful, sometimes not; but if anybody climbed an eight-thousander in winter, it could only be the Poles. So far they have eight of them to their name – they are true Ice Warriors.

*book in Polish, film in Polish with English subtitles
Where to buy:
Publisher: Agora SA
Bibioteka Gazety Wyborczej
available in kiosks or online at:
www.kulturalnysklep.pl
and
himal@himal.com.pl

* see : – http://www.polishhimalayas.com/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

* Source : – http://himalman.wordpress.com/

(more…)

  • Share/Bookmark