Posts Tagged ‘Travel’

30th anniversary of the first – ever summit of Mt Everest in the Winter season.

Thursday, February 18th, 2010

Yesterday (February 17, 1980) was the 30th anniversary of the first-ever summit of Mount Everest in the Winter season.

Two Polish mountaineers, Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy, reached the top of the world’s highest peak in 1980, going down in history as the first people to get there in winter.

Mt Everest 1980 first winter ascent -K Wielicki and L Cichy
Over the last 30 years, seven people have so far completed the challenge in winter time, however, in Summer, the journey is easier, so 3,500 have managed to summit Everest.

The 20-strong group which initially set off for the mountain was whittled down to two – the final leg of the journey upwards took seven hours, said Leszek Cichy to Polish Radio.
There isn’t much snow in the Himalayas in winter, as it is blown off by heavy wind. Mount Everest is fortified against mountaineers with large slabs of ice, strong winds and frost. The temperatures in tents at night dropped to minus 40˚C.

“We were high up on the ridge, the nearest people were several hours walking distance away from us. The only thing that allows us to keep in touch was radio. The wind was strong. And, as we were descending, dusk set in and snow from western face blew in the air. And we found ourselves on the border between what is real and unreal, on the border between shadow and the sun, night and day, and also, in a way, between life and death,” Cichy said, referring to the last stages of the ascent.

Mt Everest 1980 first winter ascent -Uczestnicy wyprawy w bazie (fot. Bogdan Jankowski) Mt Everest 1980 first winter ascent – team.

Leszek Cichy presents note which in 1979 Ray Genet left on top of Mount Everest

* Source : – http://himalman.wordpress.com/

* Related Links :

- Polish Himalayas – The Ice Warriors. /Version english and polish/

- Krzysztof Wielicki the famous Polish climber./ Version polish and english /

- Leszek Cichy the famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 1

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 2

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 3

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 4

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

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** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Best of ExplorersWeb 2009 Awards : Park Young Seok, new route on Mount Everest.

Sunday, January 3rd, 2010

Posted by himalman

Climbing all the 14×8000ers and walking to both poles, in 2005 Korean Park Young-Seok completed the world’s first Adventure Grand Slam.

With him at the North Pole were two of his closest friends; accomplished high altitude mountaineers Oh Hee-Joon and Lee Hyun-Jo.

Everest traverse

Oh Hee-Joon used to deliver 47kg parcels to the Halla mountain shelter in Korea’s mountains to make money for his training lessons and was known for his remarkable strength.

One year after the North Pole crossing he summited Everest from the north side – with Park who then traversed the mountain with another regular team-mate.

Serap Jangbu Sherpa had summited K2 with Park in 2001, witnessing his 14th 8000er. Now a hard Everest descent awaited the two.

The route was not yet opened leaving the climbers to come down without fixed rope or camps in worsening weather. With only one head-lamp, the exhausted men finally crashed in another team’s tent in camp 3 on Everest south side.

While we looked elsewhere

The wild ideas mounted. The next year in 2007 Oh and Lee followed Park again, this time to attempt the SW face of Everest. This is where the triumphs ended. Oh Hee-Joon, 37, and Lee Hyun-Jo, 34, fell to their deaths high above 8000 meters.

Seume said it well already centuries ago: “Man ought always to have something that he prefers to life; otherwise life itself will seem to him tiresome and void.”

Of course Park Young-Seok knew that. Still he broke down. 6 months later he re-emerged from a serious boozing spree, ready to tackle the dreaded face again, for his lost friends exactly.

“I will conquer the peak at any cost,” he said. “I’ll climb up even if my calf is ruptured. I’ve built a good and bad relationship with the southwestern wall. It’s about time I concluded it.”

In that spirit, while all attention was focused on the normal route, Mr Park summited Everest this spring via a new line on the immense and technical SW Face.

“This is one of the most significant events this season, since the other two routes on the SW Face were opened long ago,” concluded ExWeb’s contributor and statistician Rodrigo Granzotto Peron. “27 years after, now we have a third route, a Korean Route.”

Related story: Breaking news: Mr Park climbs Everest SW face.

Related story: Routes to climb Everest.

Related story: StatCrunch, take 2: 8000er national ranking.

Related story: Pete Poston’s Chomolungma Nirvana – the Routes of Mount Everest.

Special mentions:
- Good guys leaving too early: Tomaz, Piotr, Serguey, Martin, Oscar, Roby…
- GIII/GIV attempt and rescue.
- Nives Meroi, fame for love.
- North Pole-Greenland crossing and polar records.

* Previous story on Himalman’s Weblog :

-   Best of ExplorersWeb 2009 Awards: Miss Oh and Miss Go, Himalaya Dream Mile.

-   Best of ExplorersWeb 2009 Awards: new route on Nanga Parbat.

-   Best of ExplorersWeb 2009 Awards: the 14×8000ers.

-   Best of ExplorersWeb 2009 Awards: Altitude Junkies and FTA – corporate compassion.

-   Best of ExplorersWeb 2009 Awards – Special mention.

-   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Farewell to friends.

-   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Polar adventures.

-   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Significant climbs.

-   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: The Oceans.

-   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Mount Everest.

-   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Controversies.

-   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Technology and Space.

-   Tragedy in the Himalaya, 2009 climbing season.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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Polish Himalayas – Women in the Mountains. /Version english and polish/

Wednesday, October 28th, 2009

Posted by himalman

The good Lord helped us both climb to great heights on the same day” -Rutkiewicz – Summit Everest this is the most famous quotation related to Polish Himalayan climbing and it moves us now as much as ever, or perhaps even more, since both of the interlocutors are no longer with us.

The words were spoken by the pope John Paul II to Wanda Rutkiewicz on the 10th of June 1979, during his first pilgrimage to Poland. He was referring to the amazing day of the 16th of October 1978, which was of utmost importance for both of them.

When the white smoke over St. Peter’s Square let the Catholic world know it had a new pope, the pope’s compatriot from a faraway country was standing on the Earth’s tallest summit, Mount Everest, as the third woman and first European woman in history.

This event, by many referred to as a miracle, was at the same time a strong affirmation of the phenomenon created by Polish women climbers: women’s mountaineering.

*book in Polish, film in Polish with English subtitles
Where to buy:
Publisher: Agora SA
Bibioteka Gazety WyborczejPolish Himalayas – Women in the Mountains
available in kiosks or online at:
www.kulturalnysklep.pl
and
himal@himal.com.pl

* see : – http://www.polishhimalayas.com/

* Previous story :

- Polish Himalayas – The First Conquerors. /Version english and polish/

- Polish Himalayas – The Ice Warriors. /Version english and polish/

- Polish Himalayas – The Great Climbing. /Version english and polish/

* Source : – http://himalman.wordpress.com/

(more…)

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Polish Himalayas – The Great Climbing. /Version english and polish/

Friday, October 16th, 2009

Posted by himalman

The Himalayas by the Fingertips.

A story of extreme climbing always sounds a bit like a fairy tale. As the altitude grows and the difficulties pile up, the eyes of the listeners open wider and wider. Some of them accept the account at face-value, others refuse to believe it, assuming the story-teller is telling stories. Polish Himalayas – The Great Climbing

Not than you can blame them – it does take some imagination to picture somebody climbing mountain faces many kilometers high, going up steps no bigger than a bottle top, with holds only large enough for fingertips. And all these acrobatics at an altitude so high that the extreme thinness of the air tears the struggling lungs apart.

The above is, however, no exaggeration. It is just as accurate as the account of the express ascent: 20 hours up an eight-thousand meter summit and back to base camp (Krzysztof Wielicki – Broad Peak (1984) – normal route, the first ever ascent on a summit of 8000 meter peak in one day (16 hours up, 6 hours down), solo). Such extreme feats are part of sports climbing, a type of climbing reserved exclusively for the best – it is climbing by the fingertips.

*book in Polish, film in Polish with English subtitles
Where to buy:
Publisher: Agora SA
Bibioteka Gazety Wyborczej
available in kiosks or online at:
www.kulturalnysklep.pl
and
himal@himal.com.pl

* see : – http://www.polishhimalayas.com/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

* Previous story :

- Polish Himalayas – The Ice Warriors. /Version english and polish/

- Polish Himalayas – The First Conquerors. /Version english and polish/

* Source : – http://himalman.wordpress.com/

(more…)

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Polish Himalayas – The Ice Warriors. /Version english and polish/

Wednesday, October 14th, 2009

Posted by himalman

Poles in the Himalayas in Winter.

The 17th of January 1980 was one of those days in the history of the world when humankind  managed to break another barrier, to push back the boundaries of the impossible yet again – using skill, intelligence and determination. Throughout the centuries there have been many such days for science, art, sport or the exploration of the globe. On the 17th of January two Poles, Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki, joined the exclusive club of the discoverers of the undiscovered, the explorers of the unexplored, the conquerors of the unconquered. They became the first people in the world to stand on the summit of an eight-thousander in winter – and it was the highest of them all, Mount Everest.Polish Himalayas – The Ice Warriors

In the years that followed Polish expeditions went into the Himalayas one after another, sometimes they were successful, sometimes not; but if anybody climbed an eight-thousander in winter, it could only be the Poles. So far they have eight of them to their name – they are true Ice Warriors.

*book in Polish, film in Polish with English subtitles
Where to buy:
Publisher: Agora SA
Bibioteka Gazety Wyborczej
available in kiosks or online at:
www.kulturalnysklep.pl
and
himal@himal.com.pl

* see : – http://www.polishhimalayas.com/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

* Source : – http://himalman.wordpress.com/

(more…)

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