Best of ExplorersWeb 2009 Awards : Park Young Seok, new route on Mount Everest.

January 3rd, 2010 by himalman

Posted by himalman

Climbing all the 14×8000ers and walking to both poles, in 2005 Korean Park Young-Seok completed the world’s first Adventure Grand Slam.

With him at the North Pole were two of his closest friends; accomplished high altitude mountaineers Oh Hee-Joon and Lee Hyun-Jo.

Everest traverse

Oh Hee-Joon used to deliver 47kg parcels to the Halla mountain shelter in Korea’s mountains to make money for his training lessons and was known for his remarkable strength.

One year after the North Pole crossing he summited Everest from the north side – with Park who then traversed the mountain with another regular team-mate.

Serap Jangbu Sherpa had summited K2 with Park in 2001, witnessing his 14th 8000er. Now a hard Everest descent awaited the two.

The route was not yet opened leaving the climbers to come down without fixed rope or camps in worsening weather. With only one head-lamp, the exhausted men finally crashed in another team’s tent in camp 3 on Everest south side.

While we looked elsewhere

The wild ideas mounted. The next year in 2007 Oh and Lee followed Park again, this time to attempt the SW face of Everest. This is where the triumphs ended. Oh Hee-Joon, 37, and Lee Hyun-Jo, 34, fell to their deaths high above 8000 meters.

Seume said it well already centuries ago: “Man ought always to have something that he prefers to life; otherwise life itself will seem to him tiresome and void.”

Of course Park Young-Seok knew that. Still he broke down. 6 months later he re-emerged from a serious boozing spree, ready to tackle the dreaded face again, for his lost friends exactly.

“I will conquer the peak at any cost,” he said. “I’ll climb up even if my calf is ruptured. I’ve built a good and bad relationship with the southwestern wall. It’s about time I concluded it.”

In that spirit, while all attention was focused on the normal route, Mr Park summited Everest this spring via a new line on the immense and technical SW Face.

“This is one of the most significant events this season, since the other two routes on the SW Face were opened long ago,” concluded ExWeb’s contributor and statistician Rodrigo Granzotto Peron. “27 years after, now we have a third route, a Korean Route.”

Related story: Breaking news: Mr Park climbs Everest SW face.

Related story: Routes to climb Everest.

Related story: StatCrunch, take 2: 8000er national ranking.

Related story: Pete Poston’s Chomolungma Nirvana – the Routes of Mount Everest.

Special mentions:
- Good guys leaving too early: Tomaz, Piotr, Serguey, Martin, Oscar, Roby…
- GIII/GIV attempt and rescue.
- Nives Meroi, fame for love.
- North Pole-Greenland crossing and polar records.

* Previous story on Himalman’s Weblog :

-   Best of ExplorersWeb 2009 Awards: Miss Oh and Miss Go, Himalaya Dream Mile.

-   Best of ExplorersWeb 2009 Awards: new route on Nanga Parbat.

-   Best of ExplorersWeb 2009 Awards: the 14×8000ers.

-   Best of ExplorersWeb 2009 Awards: Altitude Junkies and FTA – corporate compassion.

-   Best of ExplorersWeb 2009 Awards – Special mention.

-   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Farewell to friends.

-   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Polar adventures.

-   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Significant climbs.

-   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: The Oceans.

-   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Mount Everest.

-   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Controversies.

-   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Technology and Space.

-   Tragedy in the Himalaya, 2009 climbing season.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version english and polish/.

November 18th, 2009 by himalman

Posted by himalman

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 (8611m) led by Krzysztof Wielicki, Poland’s most accomplished Himalayan climber and conqueror of 14 “eight-thousanders”.The expedition has broken the altitude record that man has ever achieved in winter on K2 (Chogori)During the expedition as a base camp tent was used Marabut’s tent – K2

K2 is considered the ultimate climb. It is located in Karakoram, on the border of China and Pakistan near the Silk Route. The history of its exploration is long and dramatic. Until today only almost 200 people reached the summit, but none of them in wintertime. Poles achieved much in the struggle with this mountain during summer. Our climbers led or marked out four routes there. The first Pole, and at the same time the first woman to climb the K2 summit was Wanda Rutkiewicz.

K2 will be climbed from the northern side. The current leader of the expedition Krzysztof Wielicki successfully ascented the mountain in the summer of 1996.

Only 8 out of 14 highest peaks over 8000m were climbed in the winter. Poles were the first to climb them all and are still continuing the idea of the Polish Program of Winter Exploration of the Himalayas and Karakoram. Himalaism still remains a high-class sports challenge.

The current expedition is a tribute to Andrzej Zawada, a creator of the idea of climbing the highest mountains in the winter.

The leader of the expedition Krzysztof Wielicki is the fifth person to climb all 14 highest mountains in the world. Three of them (including Mount Everest) he climbed first, alone and taking new routes and in the winter.

K2, otherwise known as Chogori, is the world’s second highest peak after Mount Everest, extending to a height of 8611 m above sea level. It is located in the Baltoro Mustagh Range situated within the Karakoram Region that lies along the border between China and India. K2 is perceived as the world’s most difficult mountain to climb.

The vast Baltoro Glacier slowly flows down its slopes. An Italian team was the first to ascend to the peak of K2, doing so on July 31, 1954. Since then, no more than 200 climbers have reached the acme. One out of every seven of them have perished on the mountain’s slopes.

The first woman to stand atop K2 was Wanda Rutkiewicz. No one has yet succeeded in scaling the peak in winter. Extreme weather conditions reign in the region around K2. In winter the temperature descends to negative 45 degrees Celsius, while wind speeds reach as much as 200 kilometers per hour.

The last attempt at conquering the peak in winter, undertaken by a team lead by Krzysztof Wielicki, also ended in failure. The expedition began on December 16, 2002 and ended on February 28, 2003. Immediately after his return to Poland on March 18, 2003, Krzysztof Wielicki stated, “The mission of ascending the peak has not ended, but rather been suspended. I will not give any dates, but I assure you that I will return to K2. One does not combat a mountain, one struggles against adversities. These adversities include snow, hurricane winds, and exhaustion.”The Polish expedition arrived at an altitude of 7700 meters before suspending the ascent.

more : Netia K2 Polska Wyprwa Zimowa

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Polish Himalayas – The Great Tragedies. /Version english and polish/

November 7th, 2009 by himalman

Posted by himalman

“Mountains are beyond good and evil” – Freidrich Nietzsche.

The unprecedented feats in the highest mountains would sometimes claim the lives of the expedition members. Many outstanding mountaineers remained in the mountains forever – unfortunately the list of souls asking for prayer is not limited to Wanda Rutkiewicz and Jerzy Kukuczka. It includes climbers less known to the general public, but no less talented, such as Wojciech Wróż and Andrzej Czok.

There are also those who were just beginning to knock on fame’s door or who came to the mountains for slightly different reasons, for instance Staszek Latało, an excellent camera operator and documentary director, who died making a film about one of the Polish expeditions.

Biggest tragedy of Polish climbers in Himalayas on Mt. Everest – Mount Everest Expedition 1989. Polish Himalayas – The Great Tragedies

Previously, the worst single accident on Mount Everest had occurred in 1989, when five Polish climbers died in an avalanche. On May 27, 1989 died in avalanche on Lho La  : Mirosław Falco-Dąsal, Mirosław Gardzielewski, Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich and Andrzej Otręba. Eugeniusza Chrobaka who has survived in avalanche died next day on Lho La. He and Andrzej Marciniak successfully summitted Mount Everest on May 24, 1989.

The first four volumes of “The Polish Himalayas” present an overview of the mountaineering ventures. In the fifth volume Janusz “Jano” Kurczab touches upon the most difficult aspect of climbing – death in the mountains. Death, which often strips climbing of all its romanticism. Death, which sometimes is a result of heroism, but can often be caused by simple mistakes, lack of professionalism of the climber or expedition leader, or just bad luck, which can be deadly in the highest mountains.

Apart from the accounts of the greatest Himalayan tragedies the author describes the expeditions that came back with fewer members than they set out with. This concise and therefore all the more moving story will no doubt cause us to ask ourselves once again why people climb mountains.

The film included in the package is even more moving, on account of the force of the image. Neither the book nor the film, however, provide us with an answer why climbers set out into the mountains, often only to encounter death. No climber has given the answer so far, though many have tried. Each of us is left alone with the question, to which the answer is the decision whether to go up or stay down.

*book in Polish, film in Polish with English subtitles
Where to buy:
Publisher: Agora SA
Bibioteka Gazety Wyborczej
available in kiosks or online at:
www.kulturalnysklep.pl
and
himal@himal.com.pl

* see : – http://www.polishhimalayas.com/

- Everest za cenę życia – Mount Everest Expedition 1989. Biggest tragedy of Polish climbers.

- Breaking news: Piotr Morawski lost on Dhaulagiri. Piotr Morawski zginął na Dhaulagiri. /Version english and polish/

* Previous story :

- Polish Himalayas – The First Conquerors. /Version english and polish/

- Polish Himalayas – The Ice Warriors. /Version english and polish/

- Polish Himalayas – The Great Climbing. /Version english and polish/

- Polish Himalayas – Women in the Mountains. /Version english and polish/

* Source : – http://himalman.wordpress.com/

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Polish Himalayas – Women in the Mountains. /Version english and polish/

October 28th, 2009 by himalman

Posted by himalman

The good Lord helped us both climb to great heights on the same day” -Rutkiewicz – Summit Everest this is the most famous quotation related to Polish Himalayan climbing and it moves us now as much as ever, or perhaps even more, since both of the interlocutors are no longer with us.

The words were spoken by the pope John Paul II to Wanda Rutkiewicz on the 10th of June 1979, during his first pilgrimage to Poland. He was referring to the amazing day of the 16th of October 1978, which was of utmost importance for both of them.

When the white smoke over St. Peter’s Square let the Catholic world know it had a new pope, the pope’s compatriot from a faraway country was standing on the Earth’s tallest summit, Mount Everest, as the third woman and first European woman in history.

This event, by many referred to as a miracle, was at the same time a strong affirmation of the phenomenon created by Polish women climbers: women’s mountaineering.

*book in Polish, film in Polish with English subtitles
Where to buy:
Publisher: Agora SA
Bibioteka Gazety WyborczejPolish Himalayas – Women in the Mountains
available in kiosks or online at:
www.kulturalnysklep.pl
and
himal@himal.com.pl

* see : – http://www.polishhimalayas.com/

* Previous story :

- Polish Himalayas – The First Conquerors. /Version english and polish/

- Polish Himalayas – The Ice Warriors. /Version english and polish/

- Polish Himalayas – The Great Climbing. /Version english and polish/

* Source : – http://himalman.wordpress.com/

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Polish Himalayas – The Great Climbing. /Version english and polish/

October 16th, 2009 by himalman

Posted by himalman

The Himalayas by the Fingertips.

A story of extreme climbing always sounds a bit like a fairy tale. As the altitude grows and the difficulties pile up, the eyes of the listeners open wider and wider. Some of them accept the account at face-value, others refuse to believe it, assuming the story-teller is telling stories. Polish Himalayas – The Great Climbing

Not than you can blame them – it does take some imagination to picture somebody climbing mountain faces many kilometers high, going up steps no bigger than a bottle top, with holds only large enough for fingertips. And all these acrobatics at an altitude so high that the extreme thinness of the air tears the struggling lungs apart.

The above is, however, no exaggeration. It is just as accurate as the account of the express ascent: 20 hours up an eight-thousand meter summit and back to base camp (Krzysztof Wielicki – Broad Peak (1984) – normal route, the first ever ascent on a summit of 8000 meter peak in one day (16 hours up, 6 hours down), solo). Such extreme feats are part of sports climbing, a type of climbing reserved exclusively for the best – it is climbing by the fingertips.

*book in Polish, film in Polish with English subtitles
Where to buy:
Publisher: Agora SA
Bibioteka Gazety Wyborczej
available in kiosks or online at:
www.kulturalnysklep.pl
and
himal@himal.com.pl

* see : – http://www.polishhimalayas.com/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

* Previous story :

- Polish Himalayas – The Ice Warriors. /Version english and polish/

- Polish Himalayas – The First Conquerors. /Version english and polish/

* Source : – http://himalman.wordpress.com/

Read the rest of this entry »

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