Archive for the ‘New Article(s) Published’ Category

Rock to Ice

Wednesday, March 10th, 2010

Part 2: Kevin Wilkinson tests the ice & quickly sends M12

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Storm Coming?

Tuesday, March 9th, 2010

On a morning as lovely as this one, it’s hard to believe in the forecast for dire weather arriving sometime later on today. And yet, I’m somewhat interested to see what this unstable storm system will bring; for some reason, the violence of natural weather phenomena has always fascinated me, and I enjoy it on some primitive level, so long as I’m not in an unsafe place when it arrives (like clinging to a rock face in the midst of a horrific thunderstorm—which I’ve experience enough times already in my life). But wild spring weather with rain, wind, sleet, and snow, plus stormy conditions…it sounds rather interesting, actually. Not that I’d choose this over the gorgeous warm sunshine that’s been gently rocking the landscape back into liveliness these past few days, banishing the remaining icy snow and encouraging the birds to sing every morning.

I enjoyed a great solo session on Sunday, working power endurance in the bouldering gym and stretching on a bouldering mat set to capture the rays of the sun in between every effort. I climbed for about two hours, doing 10 sets of laps on 8 different problems of varying degrees of difficulty. The most moves in a row totaled almost 100, and the fewest, maybe 40 or so. My rule for myself is no shaking and resting, because I’m pretty good at getting it back if I let my hands and arms have even the smallest of breaks. At the end, I planned to do a couple more laps allowing myself to shake out, but when I grabbed the holds again, my skin screamed with such insistence that it didn’t want to touch climbing holds again that I had to listen up and give up this plan. Sore skin makes me quit. Sore muscles don’t.

I managed a bit more training back inside, working my fingers to the point of exhaustion, and then calling it. Yesterday I felt tired, for sure, but not as bad as I might have expected to feel—I even went for a trudge-like run out in the desert, still beating back the remainder of the cold that was lingering, and so trying to take it a little bit slower than usual. Today, I’m interested to see how my body fares after this one-day respite from climbing; this afternoon’s bouldering session will let me know my potential to recover at the moment.

New article posted: A Mixed Climbing Interview With Gordon McArthur

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Surprise!

Monday, February 15th, 2010

For as long as I’ve been climbing and as well as I think I understand and know about how my body works, I still get surprises sometimes. This happened yesterday. I thought that I would have a tired, lower-quality workout than I normally do, given the competition the day before (and how tired I felt during that), and my night of less sleep than usual. Instead, I had the best power workout I’ve had all winter, with my energy improving and increasing throughout the day. What a totally weird and unexpected occurrence. It left me wondering what was up with me at the comp…did I rest too much (three days) beforehand? Or did I climb too much without resting during the competition time? I don’t know, honestly, but I will try next time only having two days of rest before, I think, since this seems to have been working well for me all winter long.

But then, to just feel wickedly powerful during yesterday’s workout seemed just plain odd to me. I tested the waters just to see how far I could push things, too—discovered some cool stuff like that I can now do sets of ultra-wide-grip pull-ups, as far out as I can go on the bar. I couldn’t do even a somewhat wide-grip pull-up two years ago. Now I can do a bunch. I also made improvements in every power area I’ve been working on, from weighted single pull-ups to one-arm pull-ups, to grip strength training.

I concluded after the day was done that from here on out, for the rest of this winter’s training, I’m swapping days, doing my power workout the day after bouldering, and doing my shorter, grip-strength and opposing muscle workout on the same days as bouldering. It’s about halfway through my winter training for this year, so it’s a good time to switch it up, and also, this little experiment makes it seem like it’s perhaps a better way to go about things, given the high level of energy I felt yesterday after a night of sleep between bouldering and a power workout. Always more to learn, I suppose!

I feel really excited, too, because I finally broke down and ordered more than 100 “real” climbing holds for my gym, to fill out the walls hopefully completely. Most of the gym’s current holds are homemade rock and wood holds, which are awesome, cheap, and work great—but, they do lack in particular shapes, especially pinches, nasty slopers, and small but not positive edges. So one goal for this week for me is to get every single hold that’s left to be put up in there right now up on the walls—they’re all screw-ins at this point—leaving all of the bolt holes open to take the new holds when they arrive. It’s going to be awesome, and I’m ultra-psyched to have the gym absolutely packed to the hilt with holds, at long last.

Today, I feel a bit sore, but very well rested and ready for a good cardio workout and stretching once it warms up (2 degrees this morning…hello? I thought February was supposed to be warmer than January?). Plus coaching my climbing students (I’m booked full with eight now!), and posting three new articles—How to Plan and Take a Cheap Rock Climbing Trip,  A High-Protein, Low-Fat Berry Spirulina Smoothie, and Bonnie’s Balms Multipurpose Healing Remedies—and writing several more articles for the week. Good stuff.

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A Double Workout Day

Tuesday, February 9th, 2010

A self-imposed difficult climbing training day looms before me this morning, with a little more than two hours until start time. Then, I’ll be launched into a seven-hour day of working out, starting with the most fun part, the bouldering session. After that, I’m going to fit my normal two days of training (a total of five hours today and two tomorrow) into the rest of the day, so that I can have three days off from climbing, and two complete rest days (cardio Wednesday, just stretching and visualizing Thursday and Friday) before the little local bouldering competition I’m going to do this Saturday.

My reasons for choosing this approach have to do with the fact that I think I climb better when I have a longer period of rest, like having three days off instead of the usual two, but I also made a strong and firm commitment to myself this winter season that no matter what came up or what I decided to do, I would get in every climbing workout that I had planned. So that means that if I want to do this competition and be well rested for it, I have to shuffle my schedule to make my workouts happen. It also means that I get to do another double workout, minus the bouldering session, on Sunday after the competition. I’m just hopeful that given all the training I’ve done, I won’t feel utterly destroyed from competing for two hours, and that the idea of doing a big training session on Sunday won’t be overwhelming for me.

Of course, if anything started hurting in a wrong way or I began to feel fragile or injury prone during any workout, I would stop, because stubbornly persisting through bad pain is stupidity with no foresight. But so far, I’ve felt nothing of the sort. Sure, I get tired, and sure, looking ahead to the rest of today seems daunting, but that’s only because it’s a long time to be putting my body through the paces, and I’m normally pretty tired after just the typical Tuesday workout. But, I made a promise to myself and I intend to keep it, so I will push on through and make this day happen—and nine hours from now, I’ll probably be finishing up and feeling pretty satisfied with my efforts, albeit exhausted.

P.S. New articles posted:  How to Find Cheap & Discount Rock Climbing Gear, Whole Wheat Date Nut Spice Bread Machine Recipe, and Canned Salmon, Cucumber and Seaweed Pasta Recipe.

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Notes ‘n’ News

Tuesday, February 2nd, 2010

10 degrees this morning, and cold in the house, too. For some reason, I didn’t keep the fire going for very long yesterday, so it dropped down to near 50 in here last night. Good for sleeping, but hard to very excited in the morning before the heat from the woodstove has penetrated beyond the main room of the house. But it will, soon enough, and today’s a training day, so by the time I’m done bouldering and doing another day’s worth of drop-down pull-ups, the house will be toasty, much easier for me to work in.

Yesterday, I took Jedi out for another run in the desert. This is now my absolute favorite winter outdoor activity here—it’s warmer up there, less snowy, totally gorgeous, and completely devoid of people. Awesome. It’s just a great place to take a dog out and let him run wild and free, as every dog should have the opportunity to do regularly. And it’s a great place to take one’s self out to run wild and free, too, as every person should have the opportunity to do regularly.

I received word yesterday that I’m now the Rock Climbing Feature Writer on Suite 101. What does this mean? More articles, especially on climbing, and more diversity of articles, too—another push to write more materials, which I’m excited about, starting with today’s articles, Bouldering Training Games for Indoor Climbing and Lamb Curry, Squash, and Black Bean Stew Recipe.

Also, I will be teaching clinics again this year at the Red Rocks Rendezvous in Las Vegas, which takes place March 19-21, thanks to the efforts of Petzl and prAna in supporting my travel to the event. For fun today, check out prAna’s latest video on Chris Sharma.

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Creative Cookery

Saturday, January 30th, 2010

“Be simple. Have a beginner’s mind. Allow plenty of time and don’t overload yourself with complicated recipes. Cookbooks and measurements are good guides, but use your own creativity and trust yourself to cook well without them.” ~ Healing with Whole Foods: Asian Traditions and Modern Nutrition, by Paul Pitchford.

This short passage resonated deeply within when I read it, for it reflects my approach to cooking these days. Once an avid user of cookbooks and established recipes, writing out long grocery lists of specific ingredients, I no longer do this—ever, actually. What I do is write down a general grocery list of supplies I need, and I work from that to purchase whatever looks good in the store. Then, I plan meals from day to day, choosing from whatever ingredients I happen to have on hand.

Still, I occasionally use a cookbook as a guide, as I did yesterday, in preparing that whole chicken. But once I had the chicken and the broth cooked, I departed from the recipe, and will probably never look up how to cook a chicken that way again; it’s filed away for future use. The result was a delicious chicken noodle soup with lots of green leafy vegetables and whole-grain egg noodles. Fantastic, especially when accompanied with a fresh-baked loaf of honey-date-walnut whole wheat bread (my own recipe) straight from the bread machine.

I highly recommend this approach to cooking. The more you do it, the better you become at it. I’m pretty cavalier about exact measurements for almost everything I make, and it always seems to turn out okay. Try out new spices and new combinations; shop according to what looks freshest and most healthy, and go from there. If you’re not sure, pop out a cookbook or check online for ideas and guidance, but don’t feel like it has to be an exact science. It doesn’t.

Guiding others to prepare their own healthy meals at home is the reason behind all of the recipes I post, such as today’s Healthy Vegetarian Breakfast Egg Frittata Recipe. I created this one morning earlier this week, and of course, then I wanted to share the idea with everyone, because it’s yummy and really easy to make, plus it’s packed with good nutrition. Along with the Easy & Quick Healthy Breakfast Cereal Recipe (I make mine with goji berries usually), it’s one of my breakfast mainstays these days.

The more you cook for yourself and your loved ones, the more confidence in and comprehension of the power of your own culinary wizardry you’ll gain, and the more delicious your meals will become. As in any endeavor, it takes time and effort to master, and there’s always room for improvement. But it’s fun and freeing, a time for you to use your imagination and play with your food. And if you occasionally make something really terrible tasting, the best thing to do is announce it yourself, remove everyone’s plates, and try, try again, laughing all the while.

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