Archive for the ‘New Article(s) Published’ Category

Hot Work

Sunday, August 1st, 2010

And still, this summer’s unremitting heat persists, making every small hold that much more painful, and every day that much more swilly and slimy than I’m used to. I’ve been spoiled by summers’ past, that’s for certain. I struggle with staying psyched as I near the top of Doomsday, feeling like I’m climbing in a sauna every time I reach the final challenge, which I have yet to put together in sequence.

On day three of one-hanging yesterday, I felt awful from the get-go. Nights and nights of not sleeping well or through the night had built up to leave me feeling not recovered or particularly motivated, along with the sweltering and steamy conditions. I still managed to put in two strong efforts, but I felt thoroughly drained on the top holds. However, this led me to work out an even more efficient sequence for the finish. I always think that the days you’re not feeling strong on a project tend to lead toward the best beta revisions, because you work out smarter ways to climb when tired. Such was yesterday (and a tactic I recommend in How to Stay Psyched on Working a Long-Term Sport-Climbing Project, this week’s article).

Last night, I finally, finally slept through the night, and I got out of bed at 9 this morning feeling better and more relaxed and refreshed than I have in probably more than a week. I rest today, and then climb tomorrow. And while I have a sneaking suspicion that I could really use a two-day rest period, I look forward to tomorrow’s lesson on the rocks, whatever it might be, knowing full well that I will enjoy an awesome climbing training session after climbing tomorrow, too.

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Random

Thursday, July 29th, 2010

New Pads in my Gym, Rescued from the Dump by my Houseguests

Nothing much to share today for me here this morning that’s on my mind, so I’m sharing a picture the cool new pole vaulting (?) pads that some of my houseguests went and dug out of the trash pit at the town dump, washed, and then put in the middle of my climbing gym. I can’t wait to fall on them all winter long. So cool! Beyond that, I’m impatiently waiting for climbing time today, restless as always, after another less-than-perfect night of sleep. It’s gettin’ old, but I figure that eventually, I’ll get tired enough or it will cool off enough for me to actually get more than 6 or 7 hours again.

Check out my favorite smoothie recipe from this summer. Enjoy!

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Dog Pride

Monday, July 12th, 2010

Today, I posted Jedi sending the river crossing. I seem to only be taking videos of my dog this year, and none of rock climbing. I find this rather amusing, actually. I think I’m like a proud soccer parent, just constantly in awe of my dog’s miraculous achievements and toughness, and I think everyone else should find him pretty cool as well. Not that I have anything to do with him being cool, because I don’t. He just is. And I love to watch him do crazy things, like cross a raging river or climb a rock that I need to use my hands to climb (which he did the other day).

Also, just for all the whiny short climbers (myself included in this) out there, here’s some material to ponder for this week: The Unsung Benefits of Being a Shorter-Than-Average Rock Climber.

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Rain, Rodeo, Rest

Sunday, July 4th, 2010

A pitter-patter of unexpected raindrops surprised me this morning as I slipped into the waking world, buoyed by the smell of guests’ freshly made coffee brewing downstairs. No early-day, non-thunderstorm related rain was predicted, but that’s nonetheless what we got. Already, it’s moving on out, promising cooler and milder temps. In fact, this week the temps are supposed to be about 10 degrees below normal for this time of year, a welcome change from last week’s sweltering and smothering upper 90s.

Today marks my second day of rest, and I certainly need it, though I don’t feel all that terrible. Yesterday a whole herd of us made our way to the Ten Sleep Rodeo to watch a sport that seems much more potentially injurious than sport climbing. Everyone agreed that this proved to be amazing entertainment, with the wild horse race finale definitely being our favorite event—in this contest, teams of three attempt to wrestle down a wild horse that just has a halter with a rope attached to it. One person has to grab the horse around the neck and bite the ear, while another holds the rope, and another saddles the horse and rides it to the end of the arena. Total chaos ensues, as the contestants get dragged and flung from the wily beasts. Good times.

Back here, we sipped gin and tonics on the deck as we dined on wood-fired pizza from the local pizza joint, enjoying the cool breeziness of the evening before wandering down to the street dance downtown for a little while. Tired, I didn’t last too long there, and returned home to play around on the flute for a bit while a friend played guitar…playing the flute makes my fingers hurt, though, so I stopped before too long and headed on up to bed, drifting off into dreamland almost instantly.

New article: Get Better Rock Climbing Technique–Avoid Overgripping Holds

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