Archive for the ‘Climbing Travels’ Category

A Nightmare in Dreamland

Monday, March 1st, 2010

The most frightening recurrent dream I have isn’t always the same dream, but rather, the same result at some point in the dream-state: I’m suddenly quite aware of my body—my real, physical body, I think—but I have the terrifying experience of feeling completely not integrated within it, and therefore, I cannot move or control it. Perhaps this is what paralysis feels like. It’s a sense of total dissociation, including my neck and head. I’m just not a part of my body, and yet I know it’s mine and that I’m supposed to be able to operate it.

On most of these occasions in the past, I’ve completely panicked in dream state, trying to scream or shout or just make some sort of noise, knowing (somehow) that this will cause the terrifying out-of-body feeling to cease, because I’ll wake myself up. However, this morning, for some reason, I completely managed to quell the rising panic. Instead, a calm inner voice took over, commanding with assurance that I just needed to move my arm, and everything would be okay. After what seemed like quite a struggle (who knows how long this really takes in dream-time), I moved the arm, and, just like that, I was back in my body wholly, though I didn’t really even wake up. I actually didn’t even remember this until I was reading this morning, and read about a patient in the book falling asleep in a way that put her arm to sleep—and just like that, as so often happens with forgotten dreams, my intense early-morning experience came flooding back.

This came after a sound night of sleep, probably a result of yesterday’s thorough and much-needed replenishment of my energy stores. After a morning workout (decent, had some progress), I headed to the State Bath House for a soak in the hot healing mineral waters. I can never make myself stay in longer than the recommended 20 minutes, so I was soon out of there and on my way to pick up my quarter of a grass-fed cow. I met the rancher (interesting how you can tell who the person is who’s waiting for you even when you’ve never met them and have no idea what they look like…I pulled up, looked over, and thought, “Yup, that’s him.”).

With the beef loaded up, I drove back over to Worland and went grocery shopping—something that I actually always really enjoy. I even succumbed to the pricey lure of the delectable-looking fresh sea scallops. Where they came up with those on a Sunday in the middle of Wyoming, I don’t know, but wow—they were amazing sautéed in butter and olive oil with a little garlic and parsley and dill. I think my physical body will be much happier now, with my food variety restored. I know that whatever part of my mental being relies on food is already happier.

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Returning Sun and Red Rocks

Friday, February 26th, 2010

I had the most amazing experience yesterday—I went for a run, and I didn’t need to wear a hat or gloves. Plus, it was actually sunny and warm. What a change of pace from what I’ve grown used to, and I can only hope that this general trend will continue now, banishing the frigid parts of winter back from whence they came for yet another year, even if there’s undoubtedly still some blustery spring snowstorms yet to come. Of course, this melt-off means that Jedi’s white coat automatically gets saturated with red clay from his chest down—even though I tried to avoid the muddy-dog phenomenon yesterday by not driving out to the desert, this failed, and he came home coated in clay. Oh well. I’ll deal with this if it means sunshine and warmth.

What I didn’t do yesterday is go grocery shopping—I put it off yet again, until Sunday, when I will actually go. That’s because I found out that my one-quarter of a grass-fed, synthetic-hormone-free cow is ready for pickup, and Sunday’s when I’m going to do that. This made it seem silly to go into town a scant three days prior, so I figured I’ll suffer through a few more days of culinary boredom. It will be a total of 37 days from my last grocery shopping trip before I restock my shelves, a new record for me.

Today marks three weeks until I do get to (hopefully) sample some truly warm desert sunshine at this year’s Red Rock Rendezvous in Vegas—I’ll be teaching the “Climb Like a Girl” clinics, for men who actually want to learn how to better utilize those two things attached to the ends of their legs in their rock climbing endeavors (they’re called feet, and you can actually stand on very small edges with them when you’re climbing).

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Something to Shop For

Wednesday, February 24th, 2010

Generally speaking, I loathe shopping. My heart sinks when confronted with a busy mall, both at the prospect of going into such a place to try to locate what I need, and also, the fact that I realize I can probably find it cheaper on the Internet. And even online, I drag my feet about buying most things, save reading material and nutritional supplements, both of which I consider highly important components of my healthy daily life.

Yesterday, however, I discovered that I delight in buying, and then getting, new climbing holds the way that I imagine other women delight in new pairs of shoes or jewelry (both of which bore me, unless we’re talking about new climbing shoes, which are cool). Unable to wait any longer, I headed out to the gym at 9 in the morning to start putting the holds up. When Jody showed up at 11, she helped for half an hour, until we had all of the bolt-on holds up, and some of the screw-ins as well.

When we started climbing, we both did the same thing, just wandering around the gym and climbing nothing in particular—only seeking out to touch every new hold on the wall, both of us. After observing this, we transitioned to making up problems using the new holds (I’m particularly fond of the Metolius wood grips; they are smooth to the point of almost feeling oily and very difficult to trust and hang onto—or step on with bare feet—I foresee many inglorious falls off of them in my future). This continued until we started getting tired (I’m trying to baby my sore pinky as much as possible, but this means my three fingers on my left hand get more worked). Then, we did laps. I did five sets of power endurance laps on different problems, up and down with no rests or shaking out, to failure each time—which for me means I can still hang on, though I’m pumped, but I can’t generate the power to pull to the next hold or lower myself (if I fail on the down climb) in control.

After Jody left, I took Jedi for a walk to the post office, stopped to say hello to my neighbor, and then returned home to spent another couple of hours out in the gym putting up the rest of the climbing holds, all screw-ins. In between affixing them to the wall, I did some campusing, just playing around to see how close I am to skipping rungs (closer than ever). I also managed to bash one knuckle and to drill a small hold in my left thumb next to the thumbnail—lovely. Good fun. Lots of cussing involved, but genuinely good fun, in fact.

I came inside after this to finish off my day with the rest of my workout—but I quickly ascertained that my hands and fingers were seriously tired yet again, and that maybe I should rest them. Still, I felt sort of guilty about this, thinking, “What’s up? Why am I so tired now? Why am I dragging so much? Am I just overdoing it, or hitting a mid- to late-training time slump?” After all, I have been training since the middle of December. But the more I thought about it and managed to detach myself from myself (I do this by saying, “What would I tell myself if I were my coach?”), I actually laughed out loud. Duh.

Let’s see what would make me more tired. Hmm. Putting up hold since 9 a.m.? Yes. Add to this double the power endurance workout that I’d done on Saturday—which fatigued me immensely then, too. Add to this the campusing. Something would be wrong if these things hadn’t made me more tired than I’ve been, I realized. And, it’s a good thing, because it means I’m getting worked in my workouts, and if that’s the case, there’s no point in pushing things further and adhering rigidly to a training plan if the area(s) in question to be trained already feel destroyed and somewhat fragile.

Thinking this all through made it easy for me to let go. I recognized that doing any sort of additional work on my hands yesterday would not only be worthless, but also, actually a stupid decision. Instead, I did the other elements of the program that I still had energy for, albeit rather slowly, since I was fatigued. But they all felt okay.

As I did them, and ever since then, my thoughts keep roving back to the climbing holds, and how amazing having new holds up is, and how I want to pepper the wall with so many holds that it’s impossible to fit any more—and 100 more just didn’t do it. I want MORE! And I can feel that urge and desire in me, and it’s so unfamiliar for me to covet material stuff like this, but then again, it’s actually borne of a true result of increased and most likely, lasting, joie de vivre from those material goods, which in my world is the only true reason to justify the purchase of most unnecessary material stuff. The climbing holds DO enhance my quality life and will continue to do so long after their purchase—they’re not just giving that brief and fleeting spike of pleasure that comes with the newness of so many other material possessions. Nonetheless, I’ve told myself to quell my urge to go out and pour my finances into buying as many holds as it takes to cover the rest of the wall right now, for several reasons. Not only do I want to travel to climb outside, but also, I need to eat. Plus, it gives me something to look forward to in the future, right?

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Surprise!

Monday, February 15th, 2010

For as long as I’ve been climbing and as well as I think I understand and know about how my body works, I still get surprises sometimes. This happened yesterday. I thought that I would have a tired, lower-quality workout than I normally do, given the competition the day before (and how tired I felt during that), and my night of less sleep than usual. Instead, I had the best power workout I’ve had all winter, with my energy improving and increasing throughout the day. What a totally weird and unexpected occurrence. It left me wondering what was up with me at the comp…did I rest too much (three days) beforehand? Or did I climb too much without resting during the competition time? I don’t know, honestly, but I will try next time only having two days of rest before, I think, since this seems to have been working well for me all winter long.

But then, to just feel wickedly powerful during yesterday’s workout seemed just plain odd to me. I tested the waters just to see how far I could push things, too—discovered some cool stuff like that I can now do sets of ultra-wide-grip pull-ups, as far out as I can go on the bar. I couldn’t do even a somewhat wide-grip pull-up two years ago. Now I can do a bunch. I also made improvements in every power area I’ve been working on, from weighted single pull-ups to one-arm pull-ups, to grip strength training.

I concluded after the day was done that from here on out, for the rest of this winter’s training, I’m swapping days, doing my power workout the day after bouldering, and doing my shorter, grip-strength and opposing muscle workout on the same days as bouldering. It’s about halfway through my winter training for this year, so it’s a good time to switch it up, and also, this little experiment makes it seem like it’s perhaps a better way to go about things, given the high level of energy I felt yesterday after a night of sleep between bouldering and a power workout. Always more to learn, I suppose!

I feel really excited, too, because I finally broke down and ordered more than 100 “real” climbing holds for my gym, to fill out the walls hopefully completely. Most of the gym’s current holds are homemade rock and wood holds, which are awesome, cheap, and work great—but, they do lack in particular shapes, especially pinches, nasty slopers, and small but not positive edges. So one goal for this week for me is to get every single hold that’s left to be put up in there right now up on the walls—they’re all screw-ins at this point—leaving all of the bolt holes open to take the new holds when they arrive. It’s going to be awesome, and I’m ultra-psyched to have the gym absolutely packed to the hilt with holds, at long last.

Today, I feel a bit sore, but very well rested and ready for a good cardio workout and stretching once it warms up (2 degrees this morning…hello? I thought February was supposed to be warmer than January?). Plus coaching my climbing students (I’m booked full with eight now!), and posting three new articles—How to Plan and Take a Cheap Rock Climbing Trip,  A High-Protein, Low-Fat Berry Spirulina Smoothie, and Bonnie’s Balms Multipurpose Healing Remedies—and writing several more articles for the week. Good stuff.

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Witnessing the Conversion (& Blah, Blah, Blah Training Stuff)

Sunday, February 14th, 2010

I’m pretty tired this morning, more from a late night than from last night’s bouldering competition in Casper. It’s kind of nuts, really—I made a six-hour round trip to climb for maybe two and a half hours in another climbing gym, but whatever. It was good to go somewhere with different holds and angles and different route setting than my own gym, especially because what the route setters favored in this competition were two distinct types of movement that I really struggle with, so I have some new ideas for setting problems in my own gym along with training.

These movements are a) long leaps in a vertical line of holds, so that the top hand really generates all of the power along with one foot and b) high-step rock-over moves with the other foot off that leave the hand/arm behind pressing away from the body and down (again, one-arm power, but a little be different). Also, slopers. I need more slopers for my gym—plastic slopers, because I suck at them, though I’m not entirely convinced at how much this is really going to matter for me in terms of outdoor route climbing. Nonetheless, it’d be good to get some just for variety and training purposes.

My favorite episode in last night’s competition had absolutely nothing to do with my own climbing, though. It had to do with probably the youngest competitor there, a young boy, whose mother was following him around with his scorecard. Toward the end of the night, he had talked her into putting on his climbing shoes and checking it out, directing her up the wall from handhold to handhold and giving her beta. She did it once…then again…then again. I thought to myself, “She’s in!” At the end, as she was sitting down and taking the shoes off, I asked her if it had been her first time ever climbing, and she said with a big smile, “Yes!” I said, “You’re hooked, aren’t you?” And she replied even more emphatically, “YES, I AM!” And then her kid said, “Okay, Mom. This is what we’ll do. We’ll take my old pair of Mad Rocks and send them in to get them resoled, and they’ll be your climbing shoes.”

I loved it! How awesome is that????

Today, I have a long day of training ahead of me, since I didn’t do anything but that competition session yesterday. I don’t feel too bad at the moment—just a little tired from going to bed much later than usual, at 1:30 instead of my usual 9 or 10. I still woke up before 8, so I’m running on less rest than I normally do, but I think that will just result in a better sleep tonight. I actually feel pretty psyched on today’s workout, since I normally start my first-day training right after a two or three-hour bouldering session…it’s nice to start after a night of sleep, to feel a little fresher at the get-go than I do most days.

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Why a One-Arm Pull-Up?

Friday, February 5th, 2010

Once, months ago now, when I mentioned to a climbing friend that one of my training goals was to be able to do a one-arm pull-up, their dismissive response was, “And that’s going to help your climbing how?” I looked at this person with incredulity, thinking, “And I can even begin to explain it to you how if you don’t get it already?!” To me, this type of attitude typifies the belief or just lack of understanding about how to improve at climbing efficiently that seems prevalent among many climbers, even those with abundant experience and apparent knowledge and expertise about their practice. There’s still as serious lack of comprehension of all of the elements that go into making a strong, top-notch climber, as well as a scanty, skeletal awareness that after a certain point in a climber’s development, just climbing ceases to be the best training for improving climbing (hence the phenomenon of plateauing).

But instead of going into a long-winded scientific effort at explaining why a one-arm pull-up would be a valuable tool for any climber to have in his or her arsenal, I’ll share a story with you that I feel answers the question “And that’s going to help your climbing how?” more conclusively and summarily than any such explanation could.

A while back, I was out at a crag on belay duty for the day, just hanging out and belaying my climbing partner on his project at the time. Some other climbers showed up at the same area, including a guy who had been dispatching all of the area’s open projects (we’re talking 5.14+ routes here)—but I didn’t know him by sight or by name at that point. He seemed like a nice, soft-spoken guy, and we talked about how to correct some of the rather shaky bolt placements on the undone project he was planning to attempt on that day.

Somehow, he lost his warm-up or wasn’t warmed up enough—I think he was climbing in a group of three—so while everyone was hanging out and talking and belaying and climbing at the base of a particular set of routes, he discreetly snuck off around the corner, pretty much unseen and unnoticed, and alone, to another set of routes. Curious, I edged my way out from the base of the crag to observe what came next, unbeknownst to him.

Turns out he’d gone around the corner to warm up for his project. His warm-up involved campusing (climbing without feet, in case you’re not a climber) two-thirds of the way up a seriously overhanging 5.12c (a challenging route for most climbers even using their feet)—but that’s not all. His campusing was completely slow and controlled, so he would pull up, lock off, and then reach up statically with the lead arm to the next hold, and then do another slow-motion one-arm pull-up to the next hold, and so forth. He was utterly and completely in control the entire time. When he got about two-thirds of the way up, he then reversed the entire process, down-campusing the route, again with the slow-motion lock-offs. As many people know, reversing moves like this tends to be even harder than going up.

What was so striking about this warm-up was his total control of his movement the entire time—not to mention that even doing a single move or two of this warm-up would be impossible for many climbers, even good climbers, and for those who could do it, for most the effort required would likely cost them their day of climbing. I thought to myself in that moment, “Now that right there is a great argument for why to train to be able to do a one-arm pull-up!” After all, if doing a series of one-arms and lock-offs is your warm-up, power is not likely to be much of an issue for you at all. And to have such total control! I was wickedly impressed, especially because it was not done to show off or to display anything to anyone—it was simply a climber warming up, and I’d just happened to sneak over to watch it.

For me, that is conclusive evidence that working toward being able to do a one-arm pull-up is a valid and valuable goal to aim towards in order to improve one’s climbing ability, especially if one regularly and consistently fails at powerful single moves. The key to improving at climbing efficiently is always to identify the point(s) of greatest weakness in one’s total climbing, and then to strive to improve that or those area(s) until they’re rendered into strengths. My weakness has long been power, which goes hand in hand with dynamic movement and contact strength and power endurance.

With every increase in my power, I get noticeable gains in dynamic ability, contact strength, and power endurance—all other areas that I’ve been notoriously poor at. The stronger I get, the more force I can exert in a dyno and thus, the farther I can throw. The stronger I get, the more control and precision I have in timing my contact with the next hold. The stronger I get, the higher my power threshold becomes, and therefore, it takes harder moves to push me out of the level of endurance and into using power endurance.

In no other athletic practice do athletes just solely do their activity to train for that activity—and climbers who want to get better should take heed. This information is out there. So I believe, and so I’ve seen the results and continue to witness them with every gain I make. The fastest way to improve at climbing, once you’ve mastered most movements and techniques, is to isolate and train specific areas of weakness, and then integrate those gains into your climbing practice. You’ll continue to learn more subtle techniques, sure, but you’ll make more gains by pushing your body to be stronger in isolated, climbing-relevant movements, whether your weakest link is in your ability to pull down hard or to hang onto small holds, or something else entirely.

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Notes ‘n’ News

Tuesday, February 2nd, 2010

10 degrees this morning, and cold in the house, too. For some reason, I didn’t keep the fire going for very long yesterday, so it dropped down to near 50 in here last night. Good for sleeping, but hard to very excited in the morning before the heat from the woodstove has penetrated beyond the main room of the house. But it will, soon enough, and today’s a training day, so by the time I’m done bouldering and doing another day’s worth of drop-down pull-ups, the house will be toasty, much easier for me to work in.

Yesterday, I took Jedi out for another run in the desert. This is now my absolute favorite winter outdoor activity here—it’s warmer up there, less snowy, totally gorgeous, and completely devoid of people. Awesome. It’s just a great place to take a dog out and let him run wild and free, as every dog should have the opportunity to do regularly. And it’s a great place to take one’s self out to run wild and free, too, as every person should have the opportunity to do regularly.

I received word yesterday that I’m now the Rock Climbing Feature Writer on Suite 101. What does this mean? More articles, especially on climbing, and more diversity of articles, too—another push to write more materials, which I’m excited about, starting with today’s articles, Bouldering Training Games for Indoor Climbing and Lamb Curry, Squash, and Black Bean Stew Recipe.

Also, I will be teaching clinics again this year at the Red Rocks Rendezvous in Las Vegas, which takes place March 19-21, thanks to the efforts of Petzl and prAna in supporting my travel to the event. For fun today, check out prAna’s latest video on Chris Sharma.

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Who Inspires You? + New Website Photos

Friday, January 29th, 2010

Who Inspires You? + New Website Photos

Predawn Splendor in Ten Sleep

Predawn Splendor in Ten Sleep

What a beautiful predawn display; what a beautiful, if very cold, day! I couldn’t help myself this morning, running out onto the porch in my slippers with the camera to capture the glorious heavenly predawn light filtering over the horizon and igniting the clouds a brilliant pink. It almost made up for my decision to not bring my camera on yesterday’s (non-snowshoe) run in the desert, during which I contemplated yet again how I truly believe that there is no place in the world more beautiful than here.

As beautiful, I’m sure, but not more beautiful. The sky was completely clear, and the wide desert vistas combined with clear views of the canyons cutting through the Big Horn Mountains, along with snowcapped Cloud Peak (an almost 14,000-foot peak) and its surrounding smaller peaks—the entire Big Horn Range stood spread out before me in stark relief. Of course, my crappy little camera probably couldn’t have done it justice, anyhow, but I was still a bit disappointed in myself for not trying. Then again, I reminded myself, sometimes it’s best to just be in the moment by yourself, without trying to capture it for other people to see, too. And so I ran, and appreciated the vastness of the open land around me.

Today, my one true rest day of the week, I’m excited to bake a fresh loaf of bread (date-cinnamon-honey, I’m thinking) in the bread machine, as well as to prepare a giant pot of chicken noodle soup, using the first whole chicken (organic) that I’ve ever purchased in my adult life. I find this kind of strange, really, but I’ve never cooked a whole chicken before! So that should be an interesting experience, one that will hopefully yield a dinner option for the next week or so.

Here's Hoping Your Day Is as Beautiful and Serene as This Skyscape!

Here's Hoping Your Day Is as Beautiful and Serene as This Skyscape!

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