Archive for the ‘Climbing Events’ Category

Rock to Ice

Wednesday, March 10th, 2010

Part 2: Kevin Wilkinson tests the ice & quickly sends M12

  • Share/Bookmark

Returning Sun and Red Rocks

Friday, February 26th, 2010

I had the most amazing experience yesterday—I went for a run, and I didn’t need to wear a hat or gloves. Plus, it was actually sunny and warm. What a change of pace from what I’ve grown used to, and I can only hope that this general trend will continue now, banishing the frigid parts of winter back from whence they came for yet another year, even if there’s undoubtedly still some blustery spring snowstorms yet to come. Of course, this melt-off means that Jedi’s white coat automatically gets saturated with red clay from his chest down—even though I tried to avoid the muddy-dog phenomenon yesterday by not driving out to the desert, this failed, and he came home coated in clay. Oh well. I’ll deal with this if it means sunshine and warmth.

What I didn’t do yesterday is go grocery shopping—I put it off yet again, until Sunday, when I will actually go. That’s because I found out that my one-quarter of a grass-fed, synthetic-hormone-free cow is ready for pickup, and Sunday’s when I’m going to do that. This made it seem silly to go into town a scant three days prior, so I figured I’ll suffer through a few more days of culinary boredom. It will be a total of 37 days from my last grocery shopping trip before I restock my shelves, a new record for me.

Today marks three weeks until I do get to (hopefully) sample some truly warm desert sunshine at this year’s Red Rock Rendezvous in Vegas—I’ll be teaching the “Climb Like a Girl” clinics, for men who actually want to learn how to better utilize those two things attached to the ends of their legs in their rock climbing endeavors (they’re called feet, and you can actually stand on very small edges with them when you’re climbing).

  • Share/Bookmark

Surprise!

Monday, February 15th, 2010

For as long as I’ve been climbing and as well as I think I understand and know about how my body works, I still get surprises sometimes. This happened yesterday. I thought that I would have a tired, lower-quality workout than I normally do, given the competition the day before (and how tired I felt during that), and my night of less sleep than usual. Instead, I had the best power workout I’ve had all winter, with my energy improving and increasing throughout the day. What a totally weird and unexpected occurrence. It left me wondering what was up with me at the comp…did I rest too much (three days) beforehand? Or did I climb too much without resting during the competition time? I don’t know, honestly, but I will try next time only having two days of rest before, I think, since this seems to have been working well for me all winter long.

But then, to just feel wickedly powerful during yesterday’s workout seemed just plain odd to me. I tested the waters just to see how far I could push things, too—discovered some cool stuff like that I can now do sets of ultra-wide-grip pull-ups, as far out as I can go on the bar. I couldn’t do even a somewhat wide-grip pull-up two years ago. Now I can do a bunch. I also made improvements in every power area I’ve been working on, from weighted single pull-ups to one-arm pull-ups, to grip strength training.

I concluded after the day was done that from here on out, for the rest of this winter’s training, I’m swapping days, doing my power workout the day after bouldering, and doing my shorter, grip-strength and opposing muscle workout on the same days as bouldering. It’s about halfway through my winter training for this year, so it’s a good time to switch it up, and also, this little experiment makes it seem like it’s perhaps a better way to go about things, given the high level of energy I felt yesterday after a night of sleep between bouldering and a power workout. Always more to learn, I suppose!

I feel really excited, too, because I finally broke down and ordered more than 100 “real” climbing holds for my gym, to fill out the walls hopefully completely. Most of the gym’s current holds are homemade rock and wood holds, which are awesome, cheap, and work great—but, they do lack in particular shapes, especially pinches, nasty slopers, and small but not positive edges. So one goal for this week for me is to get every single hold that’s left to be put up in there right now up on the walls—they’re all screw-ins at this point—leaving all of the bolt holes open to take the new holds when they arrive. It’s going to be awesome, and I’m ultra-psyched to have the gym absolutely packed to the hilt with holds, at long last.

Today, I feel a bit sore, but very well rested and ready for a good cardio workout and stretching once it warms up (2 degrees this morning…hello? I thought February was supposed to be warmer than January?). Plus coaching my climbing students (I’m booked full with eight now!), and posting three new articles—How to Plan and Take a Cheap Rock Climbing Trip,  A High-Protein, Low-Fat Berry Spirulina Smoothie, and Bonnie’s Balms Multipurpose Healing Remedies—and writing several more articles for the week. Good stuff.

  • Share/Bookmark

Witnessing the Conversion (& Blah, Blah, Blah Training Stuff)

Sunday, February 14th, 2010

I’m pretty tired this morning, more from a late night than from last night’s bouldering competition in Casper. It’s kind of nuts, really—I made a six-hour round trip to climb for maybe two and a half hours in another climbing gym, but whatever. It was good to go somewhere with different holds and angles and different route setting than my own gym, especially because what the route setters favored in this competition were two distinct types of movement that I really struggle with, so I have some new ideas for setting problems in my own gym along with training.

These movements are a) long leaps in a vertical line of holds, so that the top hand really generates all of the power along with one foot and b) high-step rock-over moves with the other foot off that leave the hand/arm behind pressing away from the body and down (again, one-arm power, but a little be different). Also, slopers. I need more slopers for my gym—plastic slopers, because I suck at them, though I’m not entirely convinced at how much this is really going to matter for me in terms of outdoor route climbing. Nonetheless, it’d be good to get some just for variety and training purposes.

My favorite episode in last night’s competition had absolutely nothing to do with my own climbing, though. It had to do with probably the youngest competitor there, a young boy, whose mother was following him around with his scorecard. Toward the end of the night, he had talked her into putting on his climbing shoes and checking it out, directing her up the wall from handhold to handhold and giving her beta. She did it once…then again…then again. I thought to myself, “She’s in!” At the end, as she was sitting down and taking the shoes off, I asked her if it had been her first time ever climbing, and she said with a big smile, “Yes!” I said, “You’re hooked, aren’t you?” And she replied even more emphatically, “YES, I AM!” And then her kid said, “Okay, Mom. This is what we’ll do. We’ll take my old pair of Mad Rocks and send them in to get them resoled, and they’ll be your climbing shoes.”

I loved it! How awesome is that????

Today, I have a long day of training ahead of me, since I didn’t do anything but that competition session yesterday. I don’t feel too bad at the moment—just a little tired from going to bed much later than usual, at 1:30 instead of my usual 9 or 10. I still woke up before 8, so I’m running on less rest than I normally do, but I think that will just result in a better sleep tonight. I actually feel pretty psyched on today’s workout, since I normally start my first-day training right after a two or three-hour bouldering session…it’s nice to start after a night of sleep, to feel a little fresher at the get-go than I do most days.

  • Share/Bookmark

Discipline

Saturday, February 13th, 2010

Light snowfall this morning, and I’m hoping it clears up before too long so I can follow through on my plans for the day instead of scrapping them. I want to go to this evening’s bouldering competition in Casper, but it’s a three-hour drive, and if this turns into a blizzard, I’m out. No point in driving through terrible winter weather conditions just to climb inside at another gym, right? So we’ll see how that plays out as the day goes on. I could always just climb and do a workout here, too, though it would definitely not be nearly as fun as throwing down with a whole great group of Wyomingites tonight would be.

In any case, I feel much more energetic and recovered this morning, and I think it’s largely due to my having the discipline to actually call it a day at around 2 p.m. yesterday. I struggle with this, still—giving myself the afternoon off to just unwind, regroup, and recharge. I am a doer at heart, and it’s hard for me to stop working. Of course, this is probably why my scattered self-employment tactics work—because I push myself hard to meet deadlines and to train—but it also has a downside, in that I still persist in feeling guilty when I’m not making the most of my time or being productive at times when I feel like I should, for whatever reason.

But yesterday, I went through it logically with myself, telling myself that if I felt exhausted and unmotivated, like writing anything would be a huge and taxing burden, and as though normally fun tasks would be arduous and tedious, well, then it was time to take the afternoon off and just “waste time.” Although I don’t really think it’s a waste when your total being is demanding this sort of reprieve. I proceeded to spend the rest of the day watching more of The Wire, as well as making a fresh loaf of bread in the bread machine, and just taking it easy.

This morning, I know my decision was the right one, because I feel much more motivated and energized, and I once again feel excited about my writing projects, too. I need to continually remind myself of this natural rhythm. When I push hard in creating and training for a whole week, it’s likely that at some point, I’m going to start to feel burnout creeping up on me. If I honor this feeling immediately, chances are it will subside rather quickly, instead of turning into a full-blown period of exhaustion and lack of inspiration, which is a place I’ve already visited far too many times in my life.

  • Share/Bookmark

The Whiny Baby Within

Wednesday, February 10th, 2010

I am sore, but satisfied on this bitterly cold morning, with a fire blazing and warming it up inside to counter the negative digits in the temperature outside. I enjoyed coffee by the fire as I meditated, then read more of The Outsider, by Colin Wilson, a book which is delighting and intriguing me the more I delve into it—it’s truly an amazing work, and I’m excited to have discovered a new author to read, and a prolific one, too.

This all came about after picking up an old copy of The Philosopher’s Stone off of the book exchange shelf at the Ten Sleep Library, for which I’m sure I exchanged a hunk of pop culture junk not worth a thousandth of what this (out of print) novel is worth. It has set me off on another long companionship with an author I appreciate, much as my seemingly random purchase years ago of a book by Reginald Ray at a used bookstore in Wisconsin started my exploration of everything Chögyam Trungpa had ever written, an experience that also played a significant role in me finally finding the ladder, and then managing, ever so slowly, to pull myself rung by grueling rung out of the pit of deep depression and despair that I’d been paddling around in, barely staying afloat at times, for more than a decade.

Where I am now, to discover another incredibly perceptive and far-ranging writer/thinker who has explored a wide range of pertinent topics about the nature of being human and the big questions that arise surrounding this state of being throughout his long and illustrious career, is an exciting development, to say the least. I struggle these days to find books that truly engage me—as I’ve observed before, the more familiar a person becomes with a practice (any practice) and the longer they are a participant in it, the harder it becomes to find those experiences within that practice that really connect with them, hold their attention, and absorb them fully.

For me, it’s the same with climbing—when I started, any old choss pile or road cut would do, but now, knowing what quality rock climbing is, I prefer not to climb on less-than-stellar rock. Such is life, such is questing for the ever-better experience and growth within oneself.

I reminded myself of this yesterday as I plunged into my daylong double workout, after an awesome bouldering session in which I was suddenly able to do the moves, and then put together, one of my “ultimate problems,” one that had been thwarting me since day one of the training this winter. Big moves, slopers, pinches, one-arm power, balance—it had all of these elements. After that, I declared to my bouldering partner, “Now, if I could just do this dyno, my day would be complete.” Then I hopped on the wall, and did the dyno, making us both laugh. I played on other problems for a time, and then came in to face the workout.

Improvement every week has been my experience, and yesterday didn’t disappoint—but after the power endurance pull-up fest, I fell into the mind trap of Team Whiny Baby (TWB). TWB came about a few years ago during a climbing trip in Greece, where a number of us discovered our tendencies to turn into whiny babies when we got tired out climbing. I joked that we’d make a commercial like the Hair Club for Men commercial—“Remember, not only am I the creator of Team Whiny Baby, but I’m also a member.”

In my head yesterday, little TWB voices started popping up saying helpful things like, “You don’t need to do this core workout today—you could just save it for tomorrow, or not do it at all this week,” and “Maybe you should just do half of this workout today, since you’re doing so much.” But, as I always think and figure to myself, those exercises that prompt these types of cop-out thoughts are probably the ones that I need the most—the ones I dread and struggle through and that make me hurt. The ones that aren’t as challenging or that I find sort of fun are probably the areas in which I’m already stronger than the TWB-thought-prompting segments of training, which is why they don’t bring the TWB thoughts up.

As usual, the big boss within won out over the TWB member, reminding li’l old TWB person that she, too, would be upset with herself if she didn’t finish her workout, even if she didn’t enjoy the process. And that today would be that much nicer, as would the following days, if she did everything yesterday, so that she could enjoy a long period of much-needed rest. Thank you, big boss. Isn’t it funny how we all within ourselves have multiple personas like this—the warring parts, one that wants the bada@# workout to be done in its entirety, and one that argues for leniency?

All it took, really, was pushing through the TWB-inducing areas of the workout to get me to do the rest of it. And since I always put the hardest, most dreaded parts of every workout first, this helps—because once I’ve put these portions of training behind me, and I move into the more fun, less tortuous parts of the workout, I’m happy to be doing them and really happy to be done with the others, instead of feeling them still looming before me with their threat of bodily pain and panting. I finished the workout with some soothing stretching, feeling wonderful to have accomplished it all, and armed with the knowledge that I would thoroughly enjoy my days off—and the resultant feelings of recovery by Saturday’s competition.

  • Share/Bookmark

A Double Workout Day

Tuesday, February 9th, 2010

A self-imposed difficult climbing training day looms before me this morning, with a little more than two hours until start time. Then, I’ll be launched into a seven-hour day of working out, starting with the most fun part, the bouldering session. After that, I’m going to fit my normal two days of training (a total of five hours today and two tomorrow) into the rest of the day, so that I can have three days off from climbing, and two complete rest days (cardio Wednesday, just stretching and visualizing Thursday and Friday) before the little local bouldering competition I’m going to do this Saturday.

My reasons for choosing this approach have to do with the fact that I think I climb better when I have a longer period of rest, like having three days off instead of the usual two, but I also made a strong and firm commitment to myself this winter season that no matter what came up or what I decided to do, I would get in every climbing workout that I had planned. So that means that if I want to do this competition and be well rested for it, I have to shuffle my schedule to make my workouts happen. It also means that I get to do another double workout, minus the bouldering session, on Sunday after the competition. I’m just hopeful that given all the training I’ve done, I won’t feel utterly destroyed from competing for two hours, and that the idea of doing a big training session on Sunday won’t be overwhelming for me.

Of course, if anything started hurting in a wrong way or I began to feel fragile or injury prone during any workout, I would stop, because stubbornly persisting through bad pain is stupidity with no foresight. But so far, I’ve felt nothing of the sort. Sure, I get tired, and sure, looking ahead to the rest of today seems daunting, but that’s only because it’s a long time to be putting my body through the paces, and I’m normally pretty tired after just the typical Tuesday workout. But, I made a promise to myself and I intend to keep it, so I will push on through and make this day happen—and nine hours from now, I’ll probably be finishing up and feeling pretty satisfied with my efforts, albeit exhausted.

P.S. New articles posted:  How to Find Cheap & Discount Rock Climbing Gear, Whole Wheat Date Nut Spice Bread Machine Recipe, and Canned Salmon, Cucumber and Seaweed Pasta Recipe.

  • Share/Bookmark

Notes ‘n’ News

Tuesday, February 2nd, 2010

10 degrees this morning, and cold in the house, too. For some reason, I didn’t keep the fire going for very long yesterday, so it dropped down to near 50 in here last night. Good for sleeping, but hard to very excited in the morning before the heat from the woodstove has penetrated beyond the main room of the house. But it will, soon enough, and today’s a training day, so by the time I’m done bouldering and doing another day’s worth of drop-down pull-ups, the house will be toasty, much easier for me to work in.

Yesterday, I took Jedi out for another run in the desert. This is now my absolute favorite winter outdoor activity here—it’s warmer up there, less snowy, totally gorgeous, and completely devoid of people. Awesome. It’s just a great place to take a dog out and let him run wild and free, as every dog should have the opportunity to do regularly. And it’s a great place to take one’s self out to run wild and free, too, as every person should have the opportunity to do regularly.

I received word yesterday that I’m now the Rock Climbing Feature Writer on Suite 101. What does this mean? More articles, especially on climbing, and more diversity of articles, too—another push to write more materials, which I’m excited about, starting with today’s articles, Bouldering Training Games for Indoor Climbing and Lamb Curry, Squash, and Black Bean Stew Recipe.

Also, I will be teaching clinics again this year at the Red Rocks Rendezvous in Las Vegas, which takes place March 19-21, thanks to the efforts of Petzl and prAna in supporting my travel to the event. For fun today, check out prAna’s latest video on Chris Sharma.

  • Share/Bookmark