Animal World

February 8th, 2010 by Alli Rainey
The Return of the Robins

The Return of the Robins

Every morning now when I sit by the fire reading after meditating, Jedi casually saunters over, sits down right next to my chair, and plops his enormous fuzzy head in my lap, flopping his droopy (but thankfully not slobbery or drooling) jowls across my leg. It’s morning petting time, a place that until this winter, was occupied by my longtime companion, my cat Sassy, for years. But since she passed away last spring, Jedi quickly realized this winter that this spot was open for the taking, and take it he did.

His attention was a bit split this morning, though, by the sudden and rather dramatic return of a huge flock of robins that showed up yesterday en masse to gather for a feeding in the crabapple trees in my yard. I don’t know where they went, but they’re already back from their winter grounds, and they’re hungry. They peck and flock and flutter about in the trees, fluffing themselves up to buffer their little bodies from this morning’s cold and snow.

Only a few hours after first noting their return, I heard a familiar and resounding “thunk” as I sat up here late in the afternoon.

“Oh, no!” I thought. “Not again! Not another suicidal bird.”

I had at least two of them last year—birds who must have extremely poor eyesight or flight navigation systems, because the front windows of my house, while large, are anything but clean. Nonetheless, this didn’t keep these two birds from repeatedly flying into the window at full tilt, over and over again, until they must have gotten brain damage. This only made it worse, for in the end, they met their sorry ends from the window. Selection of the fittest, I guess, but still sad.

The day before the birds showed up this year (luckily for them), my yard hosted another kind of animal gathering—a dog party. The other climbers brought their dogs (three of them) along with them for a play date during our bouldering session, and then the neighbor’s dog came over to join in, and a veritable ruckus of dog mayhem ensued, with dogs tearing around the yard chasing each other, wrestling, yelping, and growling, and of course, peeing all over everything.

At one point, I was reduced to speechless laughter, after going outside the gym for a peek to check up on them…Jedi was camped under the porch by this point, standing there rather droopily as if a reluctant witness to the scene at hand. The youngest dog, a nine-month-old female Labrador puppy, was much closer to the current action, staring curiously as if mesmerized and not quite able to make sense of it. The older dog, a Rottweiler mutt of some sort, was blissfully air-thrusting in the proximity of the bowed head of the other black lab. I took it all in with a single glance and came back into the gym doubled over with laughter, mostly due to the different expressions on all of the dogs’ faces, which just added that indefinable element of je ne sais quoi to the overall ridiculousness of this scene.

Windows into the animal world continually delight me, from humorous scenes like the dog party to just witnessing the robins in my yard, feeding and preparing for springtime. I wonder if another nest will be built in the tree by my balcony, allowing me to observe yet again a close-up hatching and growing of baby birds, like last year? I take a passive interest in birds; I don’t need to know the names of their species if I don’t already know it. I simply enjoy their presence and like knowing that in my yard, they find a place of respite and refueling, just as I like knowing that for dogs, my yard is a playground of plenty, with trees to pee on and toys scattered about to discover (even though my own dog spurns them as stupid). It’s a small way to bond with the rest of the animal planet, beyond humanity.

Hungry Robins Plucking Crabapples Out of the Snow

Hungry Robins Plucking Crabapples Out of the Snow

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Strength, Confidence, & Security

February 7th, 2010 by Alli Rainey
Yesterday's Bouldering Session

Yesterday's Bouldering Session

The stronger I get, the more fun climbing is. I reflected on this again after yesterday’s bouldering session, followed by my weekly pure power workout. I’m starting to really feel a cool, new sensation in my bouldering, this ability to power with one arm—it’s so awesome and amazing; I can’t even begin to describe really (words, so pathetically inept at capturing feelings) what it feels like, after such a long time of not having the capability to do such moves. I feel like I have this machine I’ve been given, called a body, and I’m just now honing it and polishing it into its potential, just now comprehending all that it can and will be capable of doing. And every step forward is a new and enlightening experience of being alive and living in this body.

As my strength grows, so does my confidence, and so does my sense of inner security, in the knowledge that I AM capable, that I CAN do this move. And as my belief in my ability expands, I experience greater growth and greater success—the mind-body link at work. These things all go hand in hand, whether we’re talking about sheer physical ability, or a job, or a household project, or anything, really. If we put the time in to nurture and build ourselves from the inside out, we gain inner strength, confidence, and security as a result of the work that we put into it. We grow more confident and self assured, knowing that we’ve spent the time refining and honing our skill sets and our minds, bodies, and spirits, for whatever elements are involved in any given situation.

Then, when we are faced with a challenge, because we’ve put the time in to address the areas required to perform with excellence and conviction, we don’t feel the need to look outside of ourselves for approval or accolades—because this is not what we’re searching for, anyhow. If we already know that we possess the strength and ability, then we can simply live it, and enjoy it, for the sparkling momentary bliss of results that comes from the discipline put in. Those, for me, are the moments of pure joy and oneness, that great sense of universal expansiveness in which living is paradise in the moment.

When I push my body through an amazing sequence of movement in climbing that I know I couldn’t have done even six months ago, or when I write an article that I lose myself in the process of writing for hours on end, or when I’m running in the desert as a small fragment of the vast untrammeled scenery spread out around me—these are the moments of pure living, minus any and all extraneous b.s. There is no feedback necessary for such experiences, because they are performed from a place of pure living in the present, for the moment, in the moment, the flowing moment of being.

Experiencing these moments comes more easily and frequently for those who take the time to put the effort into cultivating strength, confidence, and security in themselves and their choices—for those who realize that really, those three qualities can only come from within, anyhow. Nearly every person stands on shaky ground in those areas at some point (or many points or even wholly) in their lives, or in some area(s) of their lives. But in the areas of deepest concern or in which a person wishes to pursue excellence, they will do themselves the greatest favor in putting the necessary time in to encourage and support the needed skills and strengths to be the best they can be in that particular domain.

And with this effort comes a release from the need to compete or compare with others, as also to seek out the approval of others—for by pushing oneself solely for oneself, a person develops a strength from within, a confidence in their choices, a sense of security in who they are and the purpose behind what they do, regardless of what others think, say, or do. They’re not threatened by those with more honed skills, nor are they put off by those who disbelieve in them. Because they know themselves, they rest comfortably in their own place and being.

I’ve been watching this process in myself in terms of climbing on severely steep routes and boulder problems. Before, I shied away from this sort of terrain, knowing full well that I didn’t have the skill set or strength to climb as I wished to climb on this angle—in fact, I felt pathetically inept and weak, and I was ashamed of my weakness. Even last winter, though I spent much of my bouldering time on the steepest wall in the gym, I didn’t really like it, because it didn’t make me feel strong or like a good climber. I always was happy to have the guys set problems for me on the less-steep walls, because I felt more in my element, more secure, confident, and strong, on these more comfortable angles.

Much to my delight, I’ve realized that this has changed completely this winter. Every time I head out to climb in the gym, I seek out the steepest wall as soon as I’m warmed up, and there I stay, dynoing, pinching, and slapping slopers, until I’m too fatigued to hold onto that angle any more. I love it! It’s so different from my old climbing style, and also, so relatively new to me in comparison to the other angles, that it’s like a mad learning-fest every time. Because I have more strength, I have more confidence in my ability to climb on this wall. And because I have more confidence in my ability, I have more security in myself and my capacity to actually do moves, even when a part of my mind still doubts me. It’s easier now to just tell it to shut up, and then go ahead and jump. It’s those momentary leaps of faith that delight me the most—especially when my hand connects with the next hold and leaves me dangling with my feet off, wreathed in giddy aura of newfound success.

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Dreary Outside, but Happy Within

February 6th, 2010 by Alli Rainey

Dreary, dreary, dreary. That’s been the weather trend of late, with barely a glimpse of the sun. I’m always more of the mindset that I’d like it to either snow a whole huge butt-load, or just be brilliantly sunny and warmer than average—not a huge fan of this in-between sittin’ on the fence weather pattern, where it’s like, “Hmm, should I snow? How about a few flakes here and there, and then I’ll just melt but never be sunny.”

I guess it doesn’t really matter much, since I’m so focused on the whole training thing at the moment. Today is my longest session of the week, the power session, and I’m psyched, as usual. Always excited, because with every workout I get to compete with me from the last workout, and to see what kind of gains I’ve made since last time. Plus, most of the holds are back up now, and I’m going to go out and do my best here in a few minutes to finish getting them up before the crew arrives for today’s session. So excuse me for being so short-winded this morning, but I got more important things on my mind—like climbing holds, you know?

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Why a One-Arm Pull-Up?

February 5th, 2010 by Alli Rainey

Once, months ago now, when I mentioned to a climbing friend that one of my training goals was to be able to do a one-arm pull-up, their dismissive response was, “And that’s going to help your climbing how?” I looked at this person with incredulity, thinking, “And I can even begin to explain it to you how if you don’t get it already?!” To me, this type of attitude typifies the belief or just lack of understanding about how to improve at climbing efficiently that seems prevalent among many climbers, even those with abundant experience and apparent knowledge and expertise about their practice. There’s still as serious lack of comprehension of all of the elements that go into making a strong, top-notch climber, as well as a scanty, skeletal awareness that after a certain point in a climber’s development, just climbing ceases to be the best training for improving climbing (hence the phenomenon of plateauing).

But instead of going into a long-winded scientific effort at explaining why a one-arm pull-up would be a valuable tool for any climber to have in his or her arsenal, I’ll share a story with you that I feel answers the question “And that’s going to help your climbing how?” more conclusively and summarily than any such explanation could.

A while back, I was out at a crag on belay duty for the day, just hanging out and belaying my climbing partner on his project at the time. Some other climbers showed up at the same area, including a guy who had been dispatching all of the area’s open projects (we’re talking 5.14+ routes here)—but I didn’t know him by sight or by name at that point. He seemed like a nice, soft-spoken guy, and we talked about how to correct some of the rather shaky bolt placements on the undone project he was planning to attempt on that day.

Somehow, he lost his warm-up or wasn’t warmed up enough—I think he was climbing in a group of three—so while everyone was hanging out and talking and belaying and climbing at the base of a particular set of routes, he discreetly snuck off around the corner, pretty much unseen and unnoticed, and alone, to another set of routes. Curious, I edged my way out from the base of the crag to observe what came next, unbeknownst to him.

Turns out he’d gone around the corner to warm up for his project. His warm-up involved campusing (climbing without feet, in case you’re not a climber) two-thirds of the way up a seriously overhanging 5.12c (a challenging route for most climbers even using their feet)—but that’s not all. His campusing was completely slow and controlled, so he would pull up, lock off, and then reach up statically with the lead arm to the next hold, and then do another slow-motion one-arm pull-up to the next hold, and so forth. He was utterly and completely in control the entire time. When he got about two-thirds of the way up, he then reversed the entire process, down-campusing the route, again with the slow-motion lock-offs. As many people know, reversing moves like this tends to be even harder than going up.

What was so striking about this warm-up was his total control of his movement the entire time—not to mention that even doing a single move or two of this warm-up would be impossible for many climbers, even good climbers, and for those who could do it, for most the effort required would likely cost them their day of climbing. I thought to myself in that moment, “Now that right there is a great argument for why to train to be able to do a one-arm pull-up!” After all, if doing a series of one-arms and lock-offs is your warm-up, power is not likely to be much of an issue for you at all. And to have such total control! I was wickedly impressed, especially because it was not done to show off or to display anything to anyone—it was simply a climber warming up, and I’d just happened to sneak over to watch it.

For me, that is conclusive evidence that working toward being able to do a one-arm pull-up is a valid and valuable goal to aim towards in order to improve one’s climbing ability, especially if one regularly and consistently fails at powerful single moves. The key to improving at climbing efficiently is always to identify the point(s) of greatest weakness in one’s total climbing, and then to strive to improve that or those area(s) until they’re rendered into strengths. My weakness has long been power, which goes hand in hand with dynamic movement and contact strength and power endurance.

With every increase in my power, I get noticeable gains in dynamic ability, contact strength, and power endurance—all other areas that I’ve been notoriously poor at. The stronger I get, the more force I can exert in a dyno and thus, the farther I can throw. The stronger I get, the more control and precision I have in timing my contact with the next hold. The stronger I get, the higher my power threshold becomes, and therefore, it takes harder moves to push me out of the level of endurance and into using power endurance.

In no other athletic practice do athletes just solely do their activity to train for that activity—and climbers who want to get better should take heed. This information is out there. So I believe, and so I’ve seen the results and continue to witness them with every gain I make. The fastest way to improve at climbing, once you’ve mastered most movements and techniques, is to isolate and train specific areas of weakness, and then integrate those gains into your climbing practice. You’ll continue to learn more subtle techniques, sure, but you’ll make more gains by pushing your body to be stronger in isolated, climbing-relevant movements, whether your weakest link is in your ability to pull down hard or to hang onto small holds, or something else entirely.

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Before the Why

February 4th, 2010 by Alli Rainey

Lazy, random snowflakes drift down outside my window already. The sun didn’t come up this morning. Instead, a gradually gray lightness gently rocked the world awake out of its darkness. I’d long been awake already, having had one of those random and quite infrequent nights of poor rest, waking up at 3:35 in the morning and never really getting back to sleep. At one point, I was starting to drift off into a dream of climbing, until I put my hang into a big hueco, dug back deep in it, and felt a couple of mice crawling around in the soft nest of grass they’d created in this dark hole they’d thought would be a safe place. I recoiled, and woke myself right back up, and that was it—no more sleep for me, despite good thoughts and gentle brainwaves.

By 6:10, I’d had enough of drifting around in semi-sleepy mind-land, so I got out of bed. I am sore after the last two training days, more sore than I’ve been, which to me indicates that I dug deeper and pushed harder than I’ve been able to yet. I found my thoughts wandering to, “Why do I even do this to myself?” and, “Why do I want to rock climb harder?” and those sorts of contemplations, which I admit have at times been prevalent in my inner life ever since I first started rock climbing more than half my lifetime ago.

But lately, more and more, I have been putting an end to such trains of thought with increasing frequency and discipline. The thing I don’t understand is, why do we always have to ask why about the things we love in this life (unless, of course, they’re damaging and/or detrimental to our wellbeing or that of those around us)? Why do we have to pick ourselves and our loves apart, instead of just accepting them and embracing them wholeheartedly as components of who we are and part of what makes us unique as individuals?

As a small child, before my memories even begin, I loved animals. My security blanket was a Steiff stuffed moose that I creatively named “Moosey” (other inspired monikers I came up with included “Squirrelly,” “Racoony,” and “Little Racoony”). I would often pretend to be a dog or a cat, covering all four of my “paws” with socks and padding around the house on all fours. Once, my mother came into my bedroom and panicked because I had vanished from the bed, only to discover me eventually half-asleep under the bed, sucking my thumb and petting the rug. To my prim ‘n’ proper grandmother’s horror and dismay, every human doll she bequeathed upon me was instantly stripped and summarily relegated to being flung, nude, into the deep dark depths of the back of my closet. The clothes would then be used to dress up one of my stuffed animals. I probably had 500 or more by the time my childhood was through.

Once, at the grocery store, I was merrily pushing around my little kid’s cart, following my mother as she grocery shopped. I actually remember this incident, because it confused me so much. The animal I’d chosen to put in the baby seat for the day was my ultra-cool stuffed oyster (named “Oyster”), who had a light-orange body that snapped out of his shell. I’d snapped him out of his shell and dolled him up in a lovely pink dress trimmed with white lace, from which his oversized googly plastic brown eyes bugged out, along with his delightfully enormous tongue. A kindly old woman came tottering over to us and said, “Let’s take a look at your baby, dearie,” only to recoil in horror a half-second later when she got close enough for a clear view of my “baby.” “Ewwww,” she snarled in disgust. “What IS that thing?”

One of my earliest memories is of our family getting our first real animal, a golden retriever named Fred (named by my brother for Grover’s horse on Sesame Street), when I was two years old. Both Fred and the cage he was transported in seemed huge; later I’d find this amusing when seeing the cage at a much greater size myself, and realizing how relatively small six-week-old golden retriever puppies actually are. I adored Fred, but he never thought I was above him in the family “pack.” He actually bit me twice, once for jumping on him when he was asleep, and once because I tried to adorn him with a toy watch about 50 times, and about 50 growls later, he gave up and snapped at my hand. He didn’t hurt me either time, and both times, my mom told me it was my fault. I totally forgave him.

Another love of mine in childhood was collecting bugs, of which I had no fear, except for bees and spiders (this continues into today—not the collecting, but the fear). I still would capture spiders, by positioning myself strategically with the jar in one hand on one side of the web, the lid on the other. I would then slam them together, and screw the lid on tight, and then watch my prize in fascination until I released it or it died. I convinced my first-grade class that I had a trained caterpillar. I read books about insects and learned everything I could about these easily accessible, ready-made “pets.”

I could go on and on with the animal stories from my childhood, but the point of all of this is that I was born this way. I did not ask to love animals, nor did I at any point consciously choose to love animals. But as a small child, it never once even occurred to me to question from whence this profound love of creatures and critters had stemmed. I simply accepted it as a part of who I was, and gladly explained to anyone who asked that I didn’t like to play with dolls, I preferred stuffed animals, thank you very much. There didn’t have to be a why. It just was as it was (and to this day is as it is, by the way—I still adore animals and often acknowledge their existence as if they’re people, as in, “Hi, horse, how’s it going?” or “Hello, dog!”).

As I’ve thought back about this, I’ve thought it would be so useful for myself and probably others, too, if we could carry some of this simple self acceptance of individuality and personal preferences into our adult lives and worlds. We don’t need to question or explain all of our loves, nor should we necessarily want to. Even more, we also don’t need to question or demand explanation of the loves and preferences of others in our lives. To do so is so often exhausting, exasperating, and pointless. Asking questions like, “Why do you love me?” or “Why do you love rock climbing so much?” or “Why don’t you like skiing?” or any such thing demands people to try to make half-a#$ed explanations or justifications for themselves and their feelings, to no avail or real purpose, since such efforts will only be half-truths, at best.

Why do we need to know why? Why can’t we simply just accept some things about ourselves as simply being the way that they are, not requiring explanations or long, drawn-out intellectual thought processes? The truth of the matter is that we will never really be able to fully put into words the why of any of our deeply held passions or pursuits in our lives, not to others, and not even to ourselves, no matter how hard we try. And it’s a waste of precious time, anyhow. These core elements of our beings rest beyond the frail reaches of our symbolic language, which can, at best, only give us a pale, one-dimensional echo of the fullness involved in being an individual human being.

Sometimes, there is no why, and there doesn’t need to be a why. There just is, and that is all.

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Tuesday Training

February 3rd, 2010 by Alli Rainey

After the heat had been going in the gym for a time, and I’d walked to the post office with Jedi and back, I headed out to put more holds up on the wall. This has become my pre-bouldering ritual this year, and will continue to be that until all of the holds are up. When Jody arrived, she jumped into the fray, too, and we spent about half an hour of the time we normally would’ve bouldered putting more holds up—it just felt like the right timing for it. Plus, I’ve finally mastered the drill, at least somewhat, so I can get the screw-in holds on the wall securely. It’s sort of the same as the drill I use to bolt routes, in that I have difficult exerting enough power to get the screws to go in properly unless I can get my whole body weight behind it. But if I can do that, even precariously balanced atop the wobbling stepladder that’s set on top of all of the bouncy, uneven mats, I can get the holds up even at the top of the wall.

When we did finally start bouldering, all of the new holds were exciting, as usual. It’s like having new routes every day, right now, which is so much fun and stimulates creativity. New combinations and new challenges are there for us to sort out from the patterns and angles created by the walls and holds. I crafted several new challenges, but overall, I wasn’t feeling too terrific—not sore, just not as peppy as I sometimes feel. So we accepted this state, both feeling this way, and stopped after about an hour and a half.

I came back inside and set up for my Tuesday training, power endurance with the drop-down pull-ups, a grueling 40-minute workout that gets the heart rate and breathing up, leaving me panting desperately as I try to feed my oxygen-starved muscles for another set. I get everything set up beforehand, and then I enter the semidarkness of the cool basement staircase where the setup is, knowing I won’t be leaving for the next 40 minutes, no matter what (sorry, UPS guy!). Then it’s on—I start with one set of maximum pull-ups (32 this time), rest 30 seconds, another (11 this time), rest 30 seconds. Honestly, those first two sets, when I still have more juice, tend to be the worst in terms of sheer pain. I do this for 10 sets, dropping down to a steady number of pull-ups in each set after the first two (yesterday it was seven).

Then, I repeat this in 20-second intervals (6 reps per set this time), then 10-second intervals (4 reps per set this time), and then I do super-sets, in which I add an elastic band (I have four of varying resistances) to take weight off every time I can’t do another pull-up, for 10 sets (started with 44 and ended up in the 20s for reps per set), with 30 seconds off in between. This is what replicates how I feel climbing in the Red River Gorge the best—just desperately pumped in my biceps, struggling to pull down on that hold one more time. It’s so good, so excruciatingly painful, leaving me gasping and heaving for one more rep every time. I’m definitely sold on this workout for working something I’ve always sucked at; it really takes it out of me.

After this self-imposed torture, I take about a 20-minute break to recuperate, eat something, and just get some energy back, and then I finish the workout with all the normal stuff, triceps work, squats, jumps, stretching, the usual. Yesterday, since I’d already walked Jedi in the morning, and since he didn’t really seem psyched to go anywhere (still tired from the run the day before, I think), I decided to forgo a late-day walk, feeling like I didn’t want to go, either. I was just torched and ready to write an article, then eat some food, watch some of The Wire, and head off to bed to try to rest up for today’s much shorter training session.

I’m sore this morning, not terrible, but definitely sore, which is a good thing. I like to know that my workouts are taking a toll and pushing me hard. “No pain, no gain” is so true, so long as its applied with intelligence instead of used to push oneself or others into injuries and poor recovery. But muscles have to be forced to think that they must be stronger in order to coerce them into becoming stronger, and isolating and training specific areas of weakness is the most efficient way to accomplish this. Now it’s my job to promote recovery as effectively as I can, with good, solid nutritional practices and plenty of rest for these worn-down muscle groups.

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Notes ‘n’ News

February 2nd, 2010 by Alli Rainey

10 degrees this morning, and cold in the house, too. For some reason, I didn’t keep the fire going for very long yesterday, so it dropped down to near 50 in here last night. Good for sleeping, but hard to very excited in the morning before the heat from the woodstove has penetrated beyond the main room of the house. But it will, soon enough, and today’s a training day, so by the time I’m done bouldering and doing another day’s worth of drop-down pull-ups, the house will be toasty, much easier for me to work in.

Yesterday, I took Jedi out for another run in the desert. This is now my absolute favorite winter outdoor activity here—it’s warmer up there, less snowy, totally gorgeous, and completely devoid of people. Awesome. It’s just a great place to take a dog out and let him run wild and free, as every dog should have the opportunity to do regularly. And it’s a great place to take one’s self out to run wild and free, too, as every person should have the opportunity to do regularly.

I received word yesterday that I’m now the Rock Climbing Feature Writer on Suite 101. What does this mean? More articles, especially on climbing, and more diversity of articles, too—another push to write more materials, which I’m excited about, starting with today’s articles, Bouldering Training Games for Indoor Climbing and Lamb Curry, Squash, and Black Bean Stew Recipe.

Also, I will be teaching clinics again this year at the Red Rocks Rendezvous in Las Vegas, which takes place March 19-21, thanks to the efforts of Petzl and prAna in supporting my travel to the event. For fun today, check out prAna’s latest video on Chris Sharma.

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A Dreamy Sunday & Two Spills

February 1st, 2010 by Alli Rainey

What a dreamy Sunday that was! After training for about three hours in the morning, I drank a little Clif Recovery shake, and then headed out to the gym to put holds up while I awaited my coaching student. She arrived shortly after, and I spent a fun hour watching her climbing improve dramatically as she learned—fast! Always my favorite, students who just pick up on what I’m saying right away and start moving their bodies better, making improvements rapidly. By the end of the hour, she was tired, and her hands were torn up, so it was time to be done.

In the house, she held up her end of the bargain. A massage student, she set up her portable table and sent me off into one of those dreamy massage trances for over an hour. Ahhh. Pure relaxation, right when my body really needed it. I’d thought that perhaps after this, I’d put in some time writing on my personal book project (that I finally started on Saturday, realizing that if I didn’t just make the time to work on it, I’d never start it, because there will always, always, ALWAYS!, as I’ve observed before, be “something to do” that needs doing). After the massage, though, and walking the dog (who’d been waiting and crouching with his bum in the air wagging his tail all day long in anticipation for this incredible happening), I felt more like just giving myself the rest of the day off.

It was already evening, after all, and I had a movie and the start of the second season of The Wire to watch, so why not? Plus, I just felt purely tired, ready to kick back and relax, and I decided to honor this desire, and let my whole being recharge, body-mind-spirit. I treated myself to a delicious dinner of chicken noodle soup and date-nut bread, followed by a divine whole-milk yogurt, which is perhaps one of my favorite treats in the world. It’s so different entirely from the gelatinous hyper-sweetened nonfat goop that passes as yogurt for most people these days. I highly recommend it—find a brand that’s sweetened with maple syrup and/or honey, and is whole milk with cream on top, and oh, man, are you in for a treat. It’s an entirely different food.

After the yogurt, I was walking down the stairs, which are very, very steep in my house, and it finally happened—about halfway down, my slipper-clad foot lost its footing, caught an edge, and off I was, sledding down the rest of the stairs on my butt and flinging the spoon from the empty yogurt container off into God-knows-where with a clanking clatter (I found it this morning sitting on a shelf as if it had been placed there for decoration on purpose; last night it eluded me). Nothing hurt, I giggled to myself as I picked myself up from the base of the stairs in one piece, reflecting on just how klutzy I tend to get when I’m really tired from climbing training.

This revelation didn’t stop me from dumping near-boiling hot spiced tea all over my thigh a few minutes later as the teacup slipped slightly in my hand. Lovely. I didn’t hurt myself in this episode, either, and at least it was only a small amount of the tea. Hello, self. Please pay way more attention to those little, everyday tasks like walking and drinking tea when you’re pooped from training!

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Time to Train

January 31st, 2010 by Alli Rainey

I have to start today’s training pronto, because I’ve got a coaching student showing up for a lesson here in a little bit…meaning I have to get all of my second-day training completed ASAP.

Yesterday’s workout was a good one, even though I didn’t feel extraordinarily strong in the gym. I did manage to do a problem I couldn’t do before, so that was cool. Then, when I came inside after the session to start my training, I got this wave of total exhaustion—not soreness, just a sense of fatigue. I took a moment to self-evaluate, and thought, “Well, I’ll just eat a Clif Bar, and start the workout, and just see if I don’t get a second wind.” About 30 minutes into it, it was apparent that I did indeed have a second wind, as I proceeded to post great improvements over last Saturday’s power training, inching closer and closer to that one-arm pull-up goal of mine. I’m so excited by the prospect; it’s still a ways away, but I am making measureable gains and I really do believe it will happen this year, now. So exciting!

I had a night of sleep that can only be described as weird and interrupted—not by anything external, but by my mind apparently making an effort to sort out the final episodes of the first season of The Wire, which I finished watching last night. Usually television shows and movies don’t creep into my dreams, but this time, this one did, and I found myself plunked into the middle of a similar and quite scary scenario with all of the criminal characters from the show. Very weird. I did sleep from before 10 to a little after 7, so even with two startling wake-up interruptions, I did get plenty of shuteye for today, I think.

But I am off to train—gotta work those hand and opposing muscles now!

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Creative Cookery

January 30th, 2010 by Alli Rainey

“Be simple. Have a beginner’s mind. Allow plenty of time and don’t overload yourself with complicated recipes. Cookbooks and measurements are good guides, but use your own creativity and trust yourself to cook well without them.” ~ Healing with Whole Foods: Asian Traditions and Modern Nutrition, by Paul Pitchford.

This short passage resonated deeply within when I read it, for it reflects my approach to cooking these days. Once an avid user of cookbooks and established recipes, writing out long grocery lists of specific ingredients, I no longer do this—ever, actually. What I do is write down a general grocery list of supplies I need, and I work from that to purchase whatever looks good in the store. Then, I plan meals from day to day, choosing from whatever ingredients I happen to have on hand.

Still, I occasionally use a cookbook as a guide, as I did yesterday, in preparing that whole chicken. But once I had the chicken and the broth cooked, I departed from the recipe, and will probably never look up how to cook a chicken that way again; it’s filed away for future use. The result was a delicious chicken noodle soup with lots of green leafy vegetables and whole-grain egg noodles. Fantastic, especially when accompanied with a fresh-baked loaf of honey-date-walnut whole wheat bread (my own recipe) straight from the bread machine.

I highly recommend this approach to cooking. The more you do it, the better you become at it. I’m pretty cavalier about exact measurements for almost everything I make, and it always seems to turn out okay. Try out new spices and new combinations; shop according to what looks freshest and most healthy, and go from there. If you’re not sure, pop out a cookbook or check online for ideas and guidance, but don’t feel like it has to be an exact science. It doesn’t.

Guiding others to prepare their own healthy meals at home is the reason behind all of the recipes I post, such as today’s Healthy Vegetarian Breakfast Egg Frittata Recipe. I created this one morning earlier this week, and of course, then I wanted to share the idea with everyone, because it’s yummy and really easy to make, plus it’s packed with good nutrition. Along with the Easy & Quick Healthy Breakfast Cereal Recipe (I make mine with goji berries usually), it’s one of my breakfast mainstays these days.

The more you cook for yourself and your loved ones, the more confidence in and comprehension of the power of your own culinary wizardry you’ll gain, and the more delicious your meals will become. As in any endeavor, it takes time and effort to master, and there’s always room for improvement. But it’s fun and freeing, a time for you to use your imagination and play with your food. And if you occasionally make something really terrible tasting, the best thing to do is announce it yourself, remove everyone’s plates, and try, try again, laughing all the while.

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